Galantman03's 8G Build

[Galantman03]

would you feel more comfortable with 9.5?

[Blue8g]

I've only read the few posts on wheel/tire sizing, but OP how much power are you planning on making?

Also, what are your goals with the car? (not Form/Function, but what sort of driving are you looking to do?)

[Silvertune]

All that's going to matter if your effective offset. 9.5, 10.5, only different will be weight. If you're fitting the same size tire on either you're going to have to run the same centerline on whatever wheel it ends up going on and to get tires that wide in back you're going to have to put it way out there which, like greddy says, not only will it be impossible to fit but it'll destroy wheels bearings and quickly too. Not to mention that you'll have to run a camber set that will ruin your camber progression which will result in the inside of the tire always supporting everything.

Have you ever tried to mount a Hankook RS3 or comparable tire? They don't flex at all, ever. No high performance handling tires do. They are like hockey pucks. It won't matter if you run a 15 inch wide tire if you're cambered in 2+ degrees you might as well have a 225 or smaller on there when it comes to contact patch because all the weight of the car whether it's turning or straight line is going to be on the inside edge and the tires will not flex enough to use the outer edge under any circumstance. An 18 inch wheel will only make all of this worse.

[greddy]

I would be more comfortable with something that fits and gets you a good tire that fits as well rather than something that takes an extensive amount of work to make fit. That being said, if you have a vision in mind, go for it.

As for camber settings, when cornering more camber is better to a certain degree because as your car turns the weight shifts to the outside wheel effectively giving you more contact patch on the ground, you do give up straight line traction and braking ability when you start going with massive camber numbers. Like a said, at 300 wtq I have very little issue with traction with my 255 RS3s and -3 degrees of camber up front. Im sure your car will make substantially more power but that power will also be divided up amongst 4 wheels rather than two. Just food for thought.

[Blue8g]

Silvertune, what are you talking about for camber reducing any ability to put power down?

If he wants to take a single turn at speed, he wants more than stock amounts of negative camber.

[Silvertune]

There is a balance, you fool. As an extreme example there are people with stanced cars who literally lift the outer edge of the tire off the ground. Thus shrinking their contact patch. The more rigid you tire the more easily it will stand up on the inner edge and while we aren't talking about stance level camber there is a relationship there. Tires on 18 inch wheels don't have any real sidewall to soak up aggressive camber. Yeah it's great for turning but horrible for straight line and tire longevity. 800whp is a league you guys couldn't even dream of, there is no rolling into it, no partial throttle. It hits like a ton of bricks and on anything that isn't geared towards hooking it will spin and spin and spin and spin even with AWD. I have seen too many well built cars shit themselves at the track because they had to look perfect and were handicapped by the suspension geometry.

[Galantman03]

I've only read the few posts on wheel/tire sizing, but OP how much power are you planning on making?

Also, what are your goals with the car? (not Form/Function, but what sort of driving are you looking to do?)

for power looking at 800, it could be more, it could be less. I haven't decided yet. whatever 35 to 40 psi gives me on e85. goals are just to have fun with everything, be it drag, autocross, and road racing,(we don't have a track though), car shows, canyon driving ect.

All that's going to matter if your effective offset. 9.5, 10.5, only different will be weight. If you're fitting the same size tire on either you're going to have to run the same centerline on whatever wheel it ends up going on and to get tires that wide in back you're going to have to put it way out there which, like greddy says, not only will it be impossible to fit but it'll destroy wheels bearings and quickly too. Not to mention that you'll have to run a camber set that will ruin your camber progression which will result in the inside of the tire always supporting everything.

Have you ever tried to mount a Hankook RS3 or comparable tire? They don't flex at all, ever. No high performance handling tires do. They are like hockey pucks. It won't matter if you run a 15 inch wide tire if you're cambered in 2+ degrees you might as well have a 225 or smaller on there when it comes to contact patch because all the weight of the car whether it's turning or straight line is going to be on the inside edge and the tires will not flex enough to use the outer edge under any circumstance. An 18 inch wheel will only make all of this worse.

how much more load on the wheel bearings if the wheels I have are 8x +30? compared to a lets say a 9.5 +30 because your load would be 19mm on each side, so wouldn't if be the same load force on the wheel bearings?(thinking out loud) really I need a fomula lol

no really the only thing i've ever mounted was the nitto invos, which are about normal IMO. Thanks for clearing that up, I also wondered why some evos tires didn't flex, now I know

I would be more comfortable with something that fits and gets you a good tire that fits as well rather than something that takes an extensive amount of work to make fit. That being said, if you have a vision in mind, go for it.

As for camber settings, when cornering more camber is better to a certain degree because as your car turns the weight shifts to the outside wheel effectively giving you more contact patch on the ground, you do give up straight line traction and braking ability when you start going with massive camber numbers. Like a said, at 300 wtq I have very little issue with traction with my 255 RS3s and -3 degrees of camber up front. Im sure your car will make substantially more power but that power will also be divided up amongst 4 wheels rather than two. Just food for thought.

I see your point. dam this rear knuckle!

[greddy]

Honstly Id go with the highest offset wheel in the width you want that will clear your knuckles.

[4g63lover]

Have you ever tried to mount a Hankook RS3 or comparable tire? They don't flex at all, ever. No high performance handling tires do. They are like hockey pucks. It won't matter if you run a 15 inch wide tire if you're cambered in 2+ degrees you might as well have a 225 or smaller on there when it comes to contact patch because all the weight of the car whether it's turning or straight line is going to be on the inside edge and the tires will not flex enough to use the outer edge under any circumstance. An 18 inch wheel will only make all of this worse.

This man speaks the troof. I ran -3 up front and though the car looked good on the drag strip and handled decent, I couldnt get a 60' faster than 2.3 secs, and I'm sure if I get the fronts to around -1.5 to -2 at the most it would hook much better.

[Galantman03]

So I've been kinda quiet haha. well this is why
This is a 18x10.5+15 work emotion rim in solid works, its not done yet


and my next plan is to design this in solid works. Last weekend I took the rear end apart and measured everything in mm to get the exact distance I needed from the knuckle face-brake plate-bearing-rotor hat thickenss- then wheel.

I will draw up this as close as I possibly can. I would prefer to use the 3d scanner at school so Ill ask about that next semester haha. other than that not to much going on. I did notice that on the sweep back of the knuckle (where the 4r is stamped) that is as far back as I can move it. I'm trying to see how plausible it is going to be to move the sweep up and down in the cad model so bear with me haha

[Galantman03]

Minor details were finished!

[unclepaulie]

a 9.5+35 will clear. a 9.5+38 will hit the banana upright, so the following will clear the banana arm (just, based off inner clearance of a 9.5+35)

x10+28
x10.5+23

if you want to use a x10.5+15 then you'll have about 8mm between the lip of the wheel and that banana arm. you'd need a tyre that is straight walled, not buldgey. the 10.5+15 will also poke 32.7mm more then a 9.5+35 or about 54.8mm more then a standard evo wheel (17x8+38)


im not sure if that helps you but figured id make those figures known



top work on the solidworks model! looks perfect.

[Galantman03]

Don't you guys have a different rear suspension setup then us? I could have sworn you guys did..


Basically Ill be moving the whole banana arm up and over to the inside of the wheel well, almost (more than likely) flush with the rear strut body. Almost making it a 90 degree angle instead of this swoop design. But idk if chromoly tubing will be effective enough, or should i make a cast mold from chromoly. idk Either or its a lot of work, and i would like to analyze it all. Hard part is drawing this wicked rear knuckle lol a lot of swoops and twists, ect.


The wheel is with in spec for the bore, bolt pattern, offset, diameter, width. The design is CLOSE but not exact. this was all done looking at a picture lol

[wetamup2k3g]

That's some crazy work. If I read this correctly, you're reengineering the suspension geometry. That's crazy dope, good luck!

[greddy]

World spec 8g rear is the same as USDM.

[Galantman03]

That's some crazy work. If I read this correctly, you're reengineering the suspension geometry. That's crazy dope, good luck!

not really reengineering the geometry, i'm trying to keep it the same, just trying to wide out the banana arm if that makes sense? To comfortably fit 295 or315 idk, just throwing that ouy

World spec 8g rear is the same as USDM.

I did not know that. so the rear is the same but the front is different

[wetamup2k3g]

Oh, I thought it might need more than that. Looking at it, it probably doesn't. Still cool stuff though. And yeah IIRC the rear setup on our cars is shared with the worldspec 8G, the 7G, the 2G and the 2G diamante looked real similar also but I'm not 100% sure on that. I think MKO uses 8G rear suspension arms because they're stronger than the 7G but still fit the same.

[Galantman03]

^sorry to ruin your hopes greg lol
its still gonna be ballin and ill have fun with it

[xd_01]

Damn your pretty nice with designing! I don't know if your familiar with it but theres a tool used to measure wheel and tire combos, Ive never used one let alone actually hold one in my hands but it seems like a pretty straight forward measuring device. Ive always been tempted to pick one up.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Percys/Percys-...61153/10002/-1

[IVORY_G]

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