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Thread: Upgrade 02 8g 2.4l 4g64

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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Bllrmbltz View Post
    It's funny how every post is about the same even if you search like they say. It's always filled with "search for it youself noob".
    We gave him the answer to the questions he asked...and I even gave a quick breakdown of what each would do. Everything he asked about was explained and discussed between the noob remarks


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    2000 Galant bagged and boomin!

  2. #22
    all OP asked was if doing any of the above will make his car faster. and we gave our opinions. thats what a discussion forum is right? unfortunately its kind of annoying when someone makes an account, doesnt read the rules of said forum theyre agreeing to, and then posts 3 separate threads asking pretty much the same thing. shoot me for doing a little flaming, but if i pulled that crap when i first started(when this forum had 5 times the active members) id be flamed ten times worse.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Bllrmbltz View Post
    Tbh. Don't listen to the negativity just do what you wanna do to your car and you'll see some kinda gain if not a gain in a self pat on the back that you got outside and tried.

    As for the intake manifold until you completely take it off you won't notice how completely thin all that metal really is. Best bet is to make friends with a welder and toss back and forth ideas. My throttle body flange neck was swapped out with a 2.5 inch peice of piping and extended about 3/4th of an inch. So yea that is "ported" for what we can do and after swapping the Tb to a 60mm I can tell you all that made a difference.

    Fuel supply. We have stock one of the largest injector sizes n/a so I wouldn't really be worried about that. Fpr helps with the acceleration curve so it's actually not all that bad. As for your fuel pump the size you have now is adequate but you'll get better performance with a new oem pump and filter sock than the one that's been sitting in your tank for idk how long.

    Exhaust upgrades are a great bolt on. High flow cats, headers, up the size of piping, and high flow muffler is what you wanna do before all those other modifications.

    Light weight pullys. You'll never know how great they are at weight reduction until you have one of each in your hands lol. But beware there has been reports of them cutting your pull on the altinator not being able to charge your battery as well as it should.

    It's funny how every post is about the same even if you search like they say. It's always filled with "search for it youself noob". You won't have a full on track car staying na auto but it'll give you some fun while you DD instead of your car always on jack stands trying to figure out what went wrong when you boost.
    Throttle body: How can you gain performance increasing throttle body size when your current motor doesn't even come close to maxing what's there? That's like putting a 4" exhaust on one of these, it doesn't net you a thing. Go run a volumetric flow rate calculation and check the velocity at the throttle body. Get your reynolds number and tell me if it's laminar or turbulant. I'll give you a hint, it's laminar. Meaning you aren't even in the realm of increasing performance with throttle body size and there is math to back it up.

    FPR: sets your fuel pressure. Tell me what relevance does changing this abstractly have to increasing acceleration? It's only job is to maintain a static pressure gradient across the needle valve in your injectors. It either keeps that gradient or it doesn't. "Upgrading" to an aftermarket unit doesn't change a damn thing, it does the same thing: it keeps the gradient. IE: No performance game what so ever. Likewise the fuel pump: Capable of handling some 280whp before running out of volume. Given that the FPR sets pressure explain to me how a new pump that flows the same is going to increase performance?

    Fueling is controlled electronically, the mechanical bits are simply there to keep a consistent environment for the electronic part so it reliably runs the same way. The ONLY way to net power by changing fueling is through a tune.

    Fuck exhaust mods. There is nothing more retarded than a loud 20 second car. The factory exhaust is plenty big enough, I wouldn't stop anyone from deleting the cat but fooling yourself into thinking it's a worth while upgrade isn't even funny.

    Sure you do. A few ounces versus a a few more ounces. Lightweight pulleys do nothing considering a serpentine setup with the AC off and low alternator load (IE, whenever you want to get on it) is less than 5 horsepower. The loss comes larger from bending the belt. I implore you, go back to high school and take an intro to physics course. There's this little concept called moment of rotational inertia. Do some calculations with the weights of each pulley and see how much you aren't gaining by putting billet pulleys in there.

    You're a fool. Fooling yourself and others into thinking that there is some merit in an all motor 4g64. The irony is people on this very forum have built them for NA potential and this is the only forum on the internet with those builds and documentation. What's hilarious about it is none of them, even with DOHC heads, high compression manual transmissions and more broke 160whp. Not a single one. 160whp is modest output on a bike. In a family four door you might as well leave it alone.
    Last edited by Silvertune; 09-24-2014 at 11:04 PM

  4. #24
    I have to agree with Kyle on this. I miss when this site was really active. Use to be a huge list of new posts. Now there's only a few here or there.

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    Currently on my 3rd 8G... Not giving up this time!

  5. #25
    Are you serious about T
    This upgrade list in a 2.4? And we talking about the notorious 2.4 GDI motor?


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  6. #26
    there was no 2.4l GDI motor in the 8g.

  7. #27
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Q is JDM as F*ck.

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  8. #28
    Experienced TGC Member mysticj's Avatar
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    Simply no, no in the 3G Eclipse/8G Galant realm anyway.

    There is so much information on this board about it...Why haven't this thread been close already?
    94 Galant GS: 4G67 head, 1G IM, Evo 8 TB, DeltaCam 272/264 Cams, Test Pipe, OE Avenger V6 60mm catback w/muffler, modified Outlander header, DIY COP setup, B/S delete, 315cc injectors, AEM UEGO WBO2, Black case 3G ECU

    1994 GS FYI
    DSM/CSM Manuals

  9. #29
    Was wondering the same thing...


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  10. #30
    I got my car lower 2 inch and they told me I needed new camber bolts why and which band is good

  11. #31
    Have you personally looked at everything to decide for youself? Possibly needed new ones before you dropped your car. It just added extra stress

  12. #32
    Well my tires r wearing and the said I need them.want should i get

  13. #33
    TGC Lifetime Patron oakrdrs187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by birchette42 View Post
    Well my tires "are" wearing and "they" said I need them. (Space!) "What" should "I" get (FUCKING QUESTION MARK!!)
    Fixed! For those who have the ability to read/write past 3rd grade.


    Camber bolts will help the front and camber kits will do the rears. You can go on ebay and "SEARCH" (Hint Hint) for "Galant/Eclipse/Stratus or Sebring Ingalls camber kits"

    Also some parts stores are also starting to carry alignment hardware and accessories.
    Last edited by oakrdrs187; 10-28-2014 at 06:01 PM

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