Right on. Thanks.
You should really think about switch to yellow tops. Red tops are not deep cycle for high demand applications. Really they're just regular starting batteries in gel form.
Nooooooo...the "hype" over using deep cycle batteries for audio is all wrong. I did a big explanation somewhere but the short basics are this:
A deep cycle absolutely has to be cycled 12.6->0->12.6 in order to prolong it's life. If you don't cycle it you actually harm the battery (unless it's lithium ion). I never, repeat never, use anything with the vehicle off thus almost all the time I am running off the alternator anyway. The only time my batteries are used would be with very very very high amp draw. So compare the subs, a very high amp draw for a short amount of time, on purely an electrical level to...a starter! They follow the same electrical "pattern" more or less...one quick high amp load
All the nonsense over deep cycles is for using audio with the car off OR alternators that don't keep up...I am neither.
If I did anything it would be switching to blue tops, yes the marine ones, because they are starting batteries that are able to be cycled...
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Makes sense if you dont run your audio with engine off. And I was gonna say blue too but left it at yellow.
I was thinking about them but they were a little more than the reds and just out of my budget :/
Think I may try to sell the reds, do a trunk mount for 2 blue tops...only issue with that is the batteries would go next to my air compressors and I'm wondering if the heat from them would damage the batteries
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Your battery set up is pretty sweet, not gonna lie. Did you ever get the tie down for the second battery cleaned up, I think that was all that needed any attention because the wiring looked nice!
I know true deep cycles don't like staying charged all the time, but I'm not so sure the Optima Yellow top isn't the same as a marine. I mean the one in my Volvo came out of a rig I had a winch on, so it got used for that, but now in the Volvo its just a starting battery and I haven't had any issue's out of it. Again, I may be wrong, but I think I remember something that they where designed as a deep cycle starting instead of just a deep cycle.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
No, I haven't done anything to it yet :/ what I've been thinking is leaving a red top in the front and moving the other to the trunk BUT I am also considering redoing my entire sub setup so basically right now I'm at a total standstill on the electrical project...it works, and works well, so I'm not gonna dick with it for now...plus it takes FOREVER to rerun all the damn wires if I do make a change :(
There are 2 types of blue top iirc, dark grey and light grey case. Dark grey is the one I wanted but don't remember why (this was all like 1.5years ago) but I think those are the deep cycle starting...may be wrong though idk...and iirc from what Dell/Elder always used to say a deep cycle will work for a while without any issues but it shaves years off the end of it's life. So if optimas are good for 10 years and you use a yellow as a starting for the entire life maybe it lasts 8 or 9, but it's still gonna last a while...the are different than trying to cycle a starting battery; that will kill it in like 10 cycles
Thanks btw
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I've been having an issue since I did the manifolds with running extremely lean and idling very poorly...we determined it was probably something to do with the EGR system and sounded like it was just getting stuck wide open at idle (car ran fine and normal under throttle). Went out and swapped the EGR valve out for a different one and cut a little more off the bracket that was right there; I think it was resting on it and causing issues too. Now she is back to normal =D next step is to look into the IAC stuff because I have never had a perfect idle before :/
Massive shoutout to M-Rod for helping me out with this, dude pinned the problem right off the bat and provided me with some pointers too
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Again, I know the issue with regular deep cycles, but I want to say optima kind of anticipated the yellow top being misused and had the deep cycle marine starting battery the same as a yellow top, I can't find anywhere that says that, but I remember it vividly for some reason. You want the dark grey cased one because it has the post terminals as well as the threaded studs, as opposed to just the threaded studs.
If you are ever back this way I could make you a sweet battery tray to even mount it under the frame rail to at least make changing that headlight easier. I've got a press brake and a company that does waterjet, so we could make it look a lot like the one in my car.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
You may be right, I didn't dig too much into the yellow tops...and i want to get back down there around summer time, if I do I will def hook up with you!
I thought yours was mounted where my second one is, only a tiny battery instead?
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It was there for awhile, but I got that box built and over the trans using the mounts for the factory battery tray, only at like 1/20th of the weight. Pretty sure I had that done when we swapped your gearbox. Hopefully when you come down we can play around with your suspension a little and see if we can make it perform better with the airbags so you don't get so much toe change as the suspension height changes.
RIP: Colin McRae, you will be missed.
"I shall go before thee and make the crooked places straight."
2001 ES V6 M/T under construction
1991 Volvo 244ti 300 whp daily driver
www.gooichimotorsports.com
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