My 2003 Silver GTZ - Kouki Vr4, 6g75 MT build

[DTP]

What paint code is that? Is it an A68 car?


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[Galantman03]

Yep


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[spdracr]

Nothing a sledge hammer can't fix. Bolt the spindle back in and beat it out.

[gtx]

Nothing a sledge hammer can't fix. Bolt the spindle back in and beat it out.

The only thing a sledge did for me is to turn the end of the axle into a mushroom. Already torched the heck out of it too. It makes me mad bc I know I'll end up cutting it, and it's going to take forever.

[spdracr]

Sledge hammer mushroomed the end but also got it out for me. Maybe mine wasn't as severe as yours.

[RedGalant2k1]

New knuckles are about 90$ at the dealership. Get a new knuckle.

A few years back i had that problem with my Galant .

[gtx]

New knuckles are about 90$ at the dealership. Get a new knuckle.

A few years back i had that problem with my Galant .

I was thinking about that, but decided against it. Reason one, time was pressing and my dealer never has anything in stock. For two, I simply refused to throw more money at it, as I already found more things I want to fix at the same time, and it seems to snowball very fast money-wise. I did get it out - it cost me some drill bits as my dremel couldn't really handle it, so I started to drill holes by the splines, and setting it on fire again randomly to the point where it let go finally. Just need to clean up the knuckle now.





Some small progress till I'm waiting for the clutch: cleaned up the flywheel and replaced the friction plate.
Before:



After:



Got the manual trans out from it's cozy corner where it was sitting for the last 2 years and gave it a good clean, than installed the trans mounts.



Put in a new TOB, happened to have one from Comp Clutch handy. I remember reading about someone having a problem getting the release fork shaft out as there's no room to tap it out if it gets stuck. Here's my solution to that.



Need to put in new seals, and it will be good to go :)

[spdracr]

What did u use to clean the transmission that well??

[xd_01]

Did you have a hard time removing the friction plate fasteners?

[gtx]

What did u use to clean the transmission that well??

Leftover gas.

Did you have a hard time removing the friction plate fasteners?

Wasn't that bad, I do wish the fasteners would have something else instead of the Phillips head, but I guess this is what the design allows. They are definitely one time use only, and fidanza supplies you with a new set with the plate.

On a different note, putting BACK the trans without help or a trans-jack is definetly a no-go.

[xd_01]

that's good, a while ago I thought I would do the same to save money but I couldnt bust them loose. The fasteners felt like they where about to strip so I stopped and brought it to a machine shop instead, in the end with the extra machine shop cost it would've been cheaper to buy a new one.

[gtx]

Wow, what a month! But I'm back.

We had a baby, our 3rd one, so things got wild a little bit, especially being on one car. Than my computer decided to self destruct as well, so after years of being casual, I literally went dark - lots of info and pictures yet to be recovered.

However, the progress didn't stop. After trying to muscle the trans back in, I made a quick run to HF, and bought their scissoring trans jack. Best $90 bucks I ever spent, the trans went back in no time.

It's common knowledge but I've never seen pictures of the difference, so here it goes. First pic: my old MT axle with the AT IMS below. Second: AT intermediate shaft (x2) vs the MT, showing the difference between the length.





Sanded down the dr knuckle while at it and repainted it with VHT, than installed my new hub.



On the other side, once I mated the trans to the engine, I got the itch: that engine needed some loving. The previous owner clearly got the 60k service done, but I questioned some of the parts used. Like coolant was leaking by the TB, bc someone decide to ditch the factory spring loaded clamps and used worm-gear ones instead. Undoing a VC bolt, it revealed that they redid the seal, but it was already leaking.
So I pulled the mani, rapinted a valve cover and installed a new gasket set. Ditched the noname wires while in there, and installed factory Sumitomo ones. At least they did Denso PT plugs. Replaced the rad hoses and clamps. Installed my Diamante manifold and TB next. I still need to cut a blockoff plate for the cc canister as it had to be scalped to clear the strutbar. Cleaned up the wiring a little bit, but unlike on my '01, I save the real effort for once I have the 3.8 in there. Filled it up with the Motul, and that's when I discovered the that the dr axle is not sealing properly. The snapring had to be replaced, and it was good to go.







Now I can go back to finishing that EVO shifter bezel :)



Car is running and shifts perfect, I just need to finish wiring the VSS and align the front again. It is so nice to drive a manual again, I really missed it. I have to say running around with no hood on and seeing people's faces was also priceless :) Of course it's back on the car now.



That's it for now, next I'm going to dig out the exhaust most likely, than start playing with the 75.

[spdracr]

Congrats on the baby.

[coconut]

Congratulations on the new baby.

[gtx]

Thanks Guys!

[8thLS6]

Everything is so clean. Congrats on the baby and getting to enjoy the car

[8gtorque]

Looks awesome!


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[Black8GV6]

Congrats on the baby and the car!

[gtx]

After a week of driving around with a GPS I got tired of looking at my non moving speedometer needle, and decided to dive into some wiring
diagrams / FSMs .

For those not aware, the problem is this:
All '02+ A/T cars have an Input Speed Sensor and an Output Speed Sensor, while all pre '02 and all M/T cars have a Vehicle Speed Sensor on the trans.
If you swap a M/T into a '02/'03 Galant (or auto Eclipse), without some wiring, you loose the speedo and odo.

Now I'm sure others have overcome this before me, but while it's really simple, I have not seen it posted on the forums so I figured I share:

On ISS/OSS cars, the 2 speed signals go to the ECU, than the ECU sends 1 signal to the gauge & the OBD plug.
On VSS cars, the speed signal from the engine bay goes straight to the cluster & the OBD plug.

In the engine bay, the small grey plug with 3 wires on the AT, goes to the Output Speed Sensor. Cut the plug and wire your VSS pigtal to it like this:

AT harness: / VSS pigtail:
Black -><- Black (ground)
Black/White -><- Black/Blue (power)
Green/Yellow -><- Yellow/Black (signal)

Now again, the ECU doesn't know what to do with this signal, so we'll bypass it in the cabin.
On your harness going to the ECU, cut the following two wires and connect them:
Connector C61 (Green plug), PIN 104 - Green/Yellow wire
Connector C59 (Orange plug), PIN 80 - Yellow/Black wire



Sidenote: on an Eclipse, substitute Yellow/Black with White/Blue.

Tada, I have speedo and odo again.

[M-Rod]

Interesting. I suppose your method is probably the more "correct" way to solve the issue versus what I did when I manual swapped my '02 Eclipse.

What I ended up doing was taking power and ground from the input speed sensor pigtail to the speed sensor on the manual trans. Then for the speed signal, I ran a wire from the manual's speed sensor into the interior with the shift cables and tapped it into the wire that runs to the speedometer at the large white connector (C-17)