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Thread: $350 4g64 5 speed swap project started

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  1. #181
    Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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  2. #182
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Wait why do u need that much negative camber on the front in the first place?

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    I've aligned it the best that I can so far. I need the front camber to go more positive. It's currently about .4 degrees too negative

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  3. #183
    So u just need to add a half a degree? That's not the headache and money for it. Why is it that negative to begin with?

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  4. #184
    I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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  5. #185
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    I'm not saying that extra negative half degree is bad, it's not gonna kill your tires if that's what u r worries about. The toe is what kills your tires. I wouldn't sweat it and would just leave it alone.

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    I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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  6. #186
    Quote Originally Posted by amaru7 View Post
    I'm assuming it's negative from the lowering springs. Yeah I don't think it'll wear anything either, just being a perfectionist with the alignment. I'll probably just leave it

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    No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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  7. #187
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    No the front won't gain negative camber from lower due to the design of the suspension. The rear yes it get more negative the lower or gets.

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    I had just assumed it was from that. Then it's probably just from having everything out and disassembled from the front suspension. I didn't align it after assembling my swap. I waited until I installed polyurethane bushings all around to do the alignment. So idk exactly what caused it, but I know nothing is bent or worn out.

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  8. #188
    Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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  9. #189
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Was this picture of your alignment specs before you added the camber bolts up front?

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    I installed 1 camber bolt on each side before I ever even checked the alignment. Here's a picture of the alignment before I adjusted anything, and before the other 2 bolts up front...


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  10. #190
    So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

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  11. #191
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    So it was 0.7 negative and u added the bolts and now it's 0.9 negative instead? I'd leave it at 0.7 negative and won't touch it.

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
    Yeah it was but once all the other adjustments were made it went to .9. The alignment rack uses the rear measurement to calculate the front as well. So as you adjust the rear, the front keeps changing. So I like to do another caster sweep after adjusting the rear. Plus adjusting front toe alone does slightly change the front measurements. Next time I have it in the air I'll pull the front wheels off and just move the front bolts to max positive adjustment. If it's not enough, then oh well. I want to align it one more time anyways because my steering wheel is slightly off center. No pulling, just slightly off. Which means the front toe is set slightly too positive on one when and slightly too negative on the other. And then it'll be getting yet another alignment after I replace my front outer tie rod ends. I drove about 15k miles on my swap without ever doing an alignment and it didn't wear my tires unevenly.

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  12. #192
    I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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  13. #193
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    I need to install the ear camber kits on mine and adjust it. It's too negative for my taste. Need maybe an added degree of positive camber to make it more flush with the fenders.

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    The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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  14. #194
    Quote Originally Posted by amaru7 View Post
    The kits for the rear that I installed can adjust up to probably 4 degrees positive depending on how many shims you use. I used 1 shim at max adjustment because I needed 1.5 degrees and it ended up perfect

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    Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
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    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  15. #195
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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    Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

  16. #196
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    Yeah i know they adjust that much. Just need to get the Prothane bushings because the Oem bolts are stuck inside the bushings. It can wait till spring. I just need to make it as even as possible before I take to get aligned because I don't have access to an alignment rack where I can keep getting it realigned until I'm happy with my camber.

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    I had the same problem. The bolts in the upper control arms and lower toe arms were seized to the center sleeves of the bushings.

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  17. #197
    I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

    I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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    '00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  18. #198
    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr View Post
    I know how to do them, I've done them on my last daily. Thanks for the pics anyway. Also u left that metal exposed without painting it. That's going to rust and hopefully doesn't get really bad or else it will be dangerous.

    I actually have the upper ones and the lower ones with the bushings still in them, removed them from my last daily before I scrapped it.

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    Yeah I have it handled. Pretty much nothing rusts out here in Vegas. Back in Illinois it would rust in just days.

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  19. #199
    Ok good

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    '91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
    '88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
    '91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
    '95 Kawasaki ZX9R

  20. #200
    DC front upper strut brace showed up last night, but it's bent. I'm waiting to see what the eBay seller is going to do about it

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