The Money Pit!

[xd_01]

Thanks for support, yea same with my trans. It moved the car but barely, i think i was missing 1st or 2nd. Its a fancy core now with all the treated gears but oh well. I would recommend any turbo cars doing the swap in the future to not take it to the dragstrip if you hope to make any good money re-selling your eclipse trans. Its clear now the eclipse trans is too light duty.

You dont need the tubular subframe but you do need to do some notching especially the k-frame. That was the part that was most questionable to me. When Brian did it I remember it being a lil much for my taste but it wouldnt work otherwise. Its been years since then and seems others who have done it are ok with it so maybe Im just overthinking it. The nice thing about the tubular sbframe is its light so makes up for the addedd weight of the Evo drivetrain BUT now puts me in a different class for competition. Actually the head swap and added turbo already did that so it doesnt really matter.

Yes you need the Evo knuckles and axles, no Evo LCA's or p/s rack. Tonight Ill post what I did with the knuckles, the strut bottom is a different size so that needs to be addressed. Theres other things that I needed to address that might pertain to you guys so Ill try to get it all up today.

[spdracr]

Thanks for support, yea same with my trans. It moved the car but barely, i think i was missing 1st or 2nd. Its a fancy core now with all the treated gears but oh well. I would recommend any turbo cars doing the swap in the future to not take it to the dragstrip if you hope to make any good money re-selling your eclipse trans. Its clear now the eclipse trans is too light duty.

You dont need the tubular subframe but you do need to do some notching especially the k-frame. That was the part that was most questionable to me. When Brian did it I remember it being a lil much for my taste but it wouldnt work otherwise. Its been years since then and seems others who have done it are ok with it so maybe Im just overthinking it. The nice thing about the tubular sbframe is its light so makes up for the addedd weight of the Evo drivetrain BUT now puts me in a different class for competition. Actually the head swap and added turbo already did that so it doesnt really matter.

Yes you need the Evo knuckles and axles, no Evo LCA's or p/s rack. Tonight Ill post what I did with the knuckles, the strut bottom is a different size so that needs to be addressed. Theres other things that I needed to address that might pertain to you guys so Ill try to get it all up today.

Sweet looking forward to getting all this documented info from u.

Which one is the k-frame?

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[xd_01]

The support that goes from the rad support to the sub-frame.

[spdracr]

The support that goes from the rad support to the sub-frame.

I always called it crossmember. But k-frame works too lol. I can always get a tubular one made after notching the original one to fit.

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[4g63lover]

I'm notching mine for sure. The bracket I run won't allow tubular anything.

Can't wait to get the info. I have a homie who works for stance/touge factory so I'm able to get evo fronts and custom rear with custom valving and spring rates fairly easy.


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[spdracr]

I'm notching mine for sure. The bracket I run won't allow tubular anything.

Can't wait to get the info. I have a homie who works for stance/touge factory so I'm able to get evo fronts and custom rear with custom valving and spring rates fairly easy.


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What bracket do u run?

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[4g63lover]

at the drag strip I go to it goes by times and we were competing in the 12.0 bracket before the car broke. It broke in qualifying every time we went out unfortunately. The rules state the suspension has to have stock mounting points(similar to SFWD rules) and a tubular subframe won't count as stock mounting points. Since we're doing a couple things im gonna likely stay in the same class but a faster bracket. 11.0 maybe 10.50


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[spdracr]

at the drag strip I go to it goes by times and we were competing in the 12.0 bracket before the car broke. It broke in qualifying every time we went out unfortunately. The rules state the suspension has to have stock mounting points(similar to SFWD rules) and a tubular subframe won't count as stock mounting points. Since we're doing a couple things im gonna likely stay in the same class but a faster bracket. 11.0 maybe 10.50


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How about a tubular crossmember?

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[4g63lover]

That I'm not sure


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[xd_01]

Sorry I haven't checked-in, haven't had time for a post with pics. Ill run through the rest of it really quick since really there isn't much left for the oem sub-frame guys.

The Evo knuckles that are needed are different in size in two places. Where the strut attaches is wider by almost 1.5mm, enough for the strut or coilover not to slip on. Also the mounting bolt holes are smaller by almost 2-3mm. I don't remember exactly but I did measure.

Theres a fews ways you can go about this, the smartest would be to get the Evo bottom half of the coilover for an Evo. Assuming the brand you run has them available sold separately. The second smartest would be to find a machine shop and bring both 8g and Evo knuckles and tell them you want the Evo ones to match the 8g ones in those two areas. Or you can do what I did which probably ranks up to 2nd dumbest option which is to take a flap wheel to the Evo knuckle and shave down material from both sides of the mounting area's totaling up to 1.5 mm and have them be all uneven. It wasn't that uneven cause Im pretty good with a grinder but there are some high and low spots. I definitely wont do that again. The first dumbest would be what me and Brian did to his a long time ago which was take a big socket and hammer it into the receiving end of the coilover mount. I mean it worked but Probably wasn't the best way to go about it but when you trying to get these done you need to get creative.

The bolt holes are much smaller by almost 2-3 mm like I mentioned before. Yea you can get Evo bolts but they will still be smaller then then 8g coilover bolt hole and I was worried of them moving around in there. Sometimes things get loose from vibration at the worst time, plus I use camber bolts so that would effect the adjustment if the coilover hole is to big. If they don't have anything to lean against there not gonna do much.

Anyhow I drilled those out with a new 16 mm bit on a drill press and if you don't have one I wouldnt recommend doing it with anything else. You need to get this thing as center as possible, I used a centering punch the exact size as the existing hole. I placed it in the chuck of the drill press and lowered in and found center, locked in the cross slide vise. After that I put in the drill bit and used tap and die oil to lubricate the bit every 30 sec. or so.

The actual drilling took about 10 - 15 min, and that's with a drill press. If you did this with a cordless,,, forget it you would over heat it right away. With a corded drill you can get it done but it would take forever and it would probably break you wrist or injure something else. The 16 mm bit is pretty big and if it locked up on the work everything would wrap up your arm cause the drill will not stop unless you lift off the trigger and believe it or not its not easy when you in this situation. Its happened to me when I used to work, I used to drill 2-3 and even 4 " holes in steel pipe with hole saws. Anyway, you would also have to find a good way to hold the work, center it, and be able to lube the drill bit so to. If its your only option drill with a hand held I would suggest keeping the knuckle attached to the LCA and by another point so it does spin on the ball joint.

[xd_01]

Here are the knuckles after I hit it with the flap wheel, not very pretty.

20160915_212739 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160915_212732 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Drilling the bolt holes wider with the 16mm bit.

20161005_212822_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Most of the time people tend to remove knuckles from the ball joint with a hammer, afterwards the edges get mashed.

20161030_123054 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

And this is what it does to the nut that clamps the ball joint.

20161030_123038 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

I went with everyones recommendation and got a SS braided line from Techna Fit. Its fairly straight forward except tightening the fitting on the rack was impossible with a regular open end wrench. It was a good excuse to go to HF and pick up some crows feet, basically an open end wrench cut off. It fits on an extension drive for those hard to reach spots. That's the beautiful thing of this sub-frame, the accessibility to the rack fitting was amazing. Doing this with the oem sub-frame would be such a pain.

20161024_162744 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161024_162722 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

CIMG3570 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Axles and stubby shafts ready to go in. Real stubborn to get in but what axle isn't.

20161030_135007 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Had to chase the threads on the slave cylinder mount, I cut the ends off the tap holder, wouldn't have been able to do it any other way.

CIMG3571 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

CIMG3574 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Slave cylinder and clutch fork stop installed.

CIMG3572 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Heres my issue with the down pipe, now if your running a stock frame turbo and Evo cast or tubular manifold you might not have a problem since its designed around the starter and t-case. Mines is all DSM and PTE so my mines totally hits the starter and even if the starter wasn't there then it would hit the t-case. I had to cut the down pipe right before it goes under the motor or else I would never be able to start the car.

20161104_195145 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Here you can see it better hanging from the hoist.

20160816_172239 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160816_172225 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160816_172220 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

So an un-expected problem arose when I asked my wife to help me bleed the clutch. My fault for not telling her which pedal to press but she pressed on the brake as hard as she could and Im like why isn't any fluid coming out. Then I realized what was happening, the bad part was the passenger side caliper wasn't on the rotor just hanging by a ziptie and a piston popped out started leaking. So I had to order and replace the seals and damn are they expensive.

20161104_195356 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

The offending seal.

20161112_143511 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Once that was all done I was able to fill with fluids and put it back on the ground finally. I was so proud this thing started on the first try and it was so loud with the open pipe, I got a lil giddy. It was so loud my neighbor from two houses down (another car guy) came over to see what was going on. We took it out around the block for a lil test run on a busy road no less with no front bumper and of course there was cop making a turn at the traffic light. Oh well he didnt notice so I made the turn and opened it up a lil and damn it pulled so hard, I had the biggest smile.

20161126_113051 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Next project is some wiring, I bought a Deutsch DTM connector kit a while back and its first job was to make my aluminum gauge panel wire a quick disconnect. Its such a pain to remove this panel with all the wires and when your building a track car you always wanna build it in a way were access isn't limited or if it is to make what ever needs removing quick and painless as possible.

20160929_104107 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161130_165252 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Connected in the car, you can also see where the relays from the engine bay where re-located to.

20161202_200242_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161202_200235_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Heres a close up.

20161130_165304 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161130_165257 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Pins crimped on.

20161130_164230 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Being pushed in the back of the connector.

20161130_164412 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

I finally removed the 45lb Optima yellow top from the trunk and installed the new 3lb lithium battery behind the driver seat with a case I made out of aluminum.

20161206_204832 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161213_215355 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Taken from the passenger side window.

20161213_215325_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

[amaru7]

Here's are the knuckles after I hit it with the flap wheel, not very pretty.

20160915_212739 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160915_212732 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Drilling the bolt holes wider with the 16mm bit.

20161005_212822_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Most of the time people tend to remove knuckles from the ball joint with a hammer, afterwards the edges get mashed.

20161030_123054 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

And this is what it does to the nut that clamps the ball joint.

20161030_123038 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

I went with everyones recommendation and got a SS braided line from Techna Fit. Its fairly straight forward except tightening the fitting on the rack was impossible with a regular open end wrench. It was a good excuse to go to HF and pick up some crows feet, basically an open end wrench cut off. It fits on an extension drive for those hard to reach spots. That's the beautiful thing of this sub-frame, the accessibility to the rack fitting was amazing. Doing this with the oem sub-frame would be such a pain.

20161024_162744 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161024_162722 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

CIMG3570 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Axles and stubby shafts ready to go in. Real stubborn to get in but what axle isn't.

20161030_135007 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Had to chase the threads on the slave cylinder mount, I cut the ends off the tap holder, wouldn't have been able to do it any other way.

CIMG3571 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

CIMG3574 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Slave cylinder and clutch fork stop installed.

CIMG3572 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Heres my issue with the down pipe, now if your running a stock frame turbo and Evo cast or tubular manifold you might not have a problem since its designed around the starter and t-case. Mines is all DSM and PTE so my mines totally hits the starter and even if the starter wasn't there then it would hit the t-case. I had to cut the down pipe right before it goes under the motor or else I would never be able to start the car.

20161104_195145 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Here you can see it better hanging from the hoist.

20160816_172239 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160816_172225 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20160816_172220 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

So an un-expected problem arose when I asked my wife to help me bleed the clutch. My fault for not telling her which pedal to press but she pressed on the brake as hard as she could and Im like why isn't any fluid coming out. Then I realized what was happening, the bad part was the passenger side caliper wasn't on the rotor just hanging by a ziptie and a piston popped out started leaking. So I had to order and replace the seals and damn are they expensive.

20161104_195356 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

The offending seal.

20161112_143511 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Once that was all done I was able to fill with fluids and put it back on the ground finally. I was so proud this thing started on the first try and it was so loud with the open pipe, I got a lil giddy. It was so loud my neighbor from two houses down (another car guy) came over to see what was going on. We took it out around the block for a lil test run on a busy road no less with no front bumper and of course there was cop making a turn at the traffic light. Oh well he didnt notice so I made the turn and opened it up a lil and damn it pulled so hard, I had the biggest smile.

20161126_113051 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Next project is some wiring, I bought a Deutsch DTM connector kit a while back and its first job was to make my aluminum gauge panel wire a quick disconnect. Its such a pain to remove this panel with all the wires and when your building a track car you always wanna build it in a way were access isn't limited or if it is to make what ever needs removing quick and painless as possible.

20160929_104107 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161130_165252 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Connected in the car, you can also see where the relays from the engine bay where re-located to.

20161202_200242_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161202_200235_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Heres a close up.

20161130_165304 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161130_165257 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Pins crimped on.

20161130_164230 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Being pushed in the back of the connector.

20161130_164412 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

I finally removed the 45lb Optima yellow top from the trunk and installed the new 3lb lithium battery behind the driver seat with a case I made out of aluminum.

20161206_204832 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

20161213_215355 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

Taken from the passenger side window.

20161213_215325_001 by Bryant Ospina, on Flickr

You don't have to change the voltage converter in the alternator or anything to properly charge a lithium ion battery?

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[xd_01]

Nothing is specified in their manual so Im guessing no but will soon see.

[4g63lover]

Beautiful progress B!

Why did you not just get a front pair of evo coilovers? Too short? When I installed my cusco coilovers on my evo it looked like it would work for thebgalant if I needed to run the evo knuckles. Iirc the top hats have the same bolt pattern and everything.


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[spdracr]

Beautiful progress B!

Why did you not just get a front pair of evo coilovers? Too short? When I installed my cusco coilovers on my evo it looked like it would work for thebgalant if I needed to run the evo knuckles. Iirc the top hats have the same bolt pattern and everything.


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No the top hats have a different bolt pattern, I only know this since I have an evo engine damper and iirc its not the same. But the top hats can be easily swapped.

I had the same question about grinding the knuckles. Or at least I would buy a bottom sleeve for the coilovers that fits the evo knuckle.

What seals did u get for the brembos? I wish u asked me cuz I would've directed u to girodisc seals.



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[xd_01]

I always thought the evos had the same bolt pattern, i guess not. I did consider getting Evo fronts but It would be costly plus not knowing if anyone would sell the fronts only. Either way doing it the hood way saves some cash and buys me time in case I go with a whole set of coilovers in the future.

By the way Jigz congrats to you and your wife.

[spdracr]

I always thought the evos had the same bolt pattern, i guess not. I did consider getting Evo fronts but It would be costly plus not knowing if anyone would sell the fronts only. Either way doing it the hood way saves some cash and buys me time in case I go with a whole set of coilovers in the future.

By the way Jigz congrats to you and your wife.

I just looked at pics and yes they are the same I think. I stand to be corrected.

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[4g63lover]

I always thought the evos had the same bolt pattern, i guess not. I did consider getting Evo fronts but It would be costly plus not knowing if anyone would sell the fronts only. Either way doing it the hood way saves some cash and buys me time in case I go with a whole set of coilovers in the future.

By the way Jigz congrats to you and your wife.

Yeah I have a pretty close friend that work at TFWorks so I can get stance evo fronts readily. I know someone on here use evo upper pillow all mounts for their 8g I just can't remember who.

Thanks Bryant! We're due in May. I'm pretty excited.


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[coconut]

I always thought the evos had the same bolt pattern, i guess not. I did consider getting Evo fronts but It would be costly plus not knowing if anyone would sell the fronts only. Either way doing it the hood way saves some cash and buys me time in case I go with a whole set of coilovers in the future.

By the way Jigz congrats to you and your wife.

My kid has a set of lower evo sleeves if interested.

[xd_01]

Sure, how much does he want for them.