would u read dude....i asked were u talkin at the crank or the wheels
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(stryker204)</div><div class='quotemain'>are u talkin to the wheels or at the crank? cause galants put down somewhere near 140 or so at the crank</div>
yes i know that, i'm talking about the hybrid 4g64/63head motor. Is there any power difference at all? I would imagine so..
would u read dude....i asked were u talkin at the crank or the wheels
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(stryker204)</div><div class='quotemain'>would u read dude....i asked were u talkin at the crank or the wheels</div>
would YOU read, dude? A 4g64 puts down about 140 at the crank, great. What does a HYBRID 4g63/64 head put at the crank?
The 94 GS engine(4g64 DOHC) puts out 160hp and 160ftlbs to the crank 8)
7g for life!
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>The 94 GS engine(4g64 DOHC) puts out 160hp and 160ftlbs to the crank Â*8)</div>
thanks, seth. See, seth is cool, not a prick. :evil:
want my input? good.. you're getting it.
first mod For your turbo galant should be reliable 2nd mode of trasportation. if you don't have one yet... put your turbo down!
now.....turbo the SOHC "for now", but over-build it.
turbo, manifold And EVERYTHING else will carry on over.
galant ECU's Are pertty safe for turbo-charging, too since they're are cap-n-rotor and don't have issues of auto-timing Advance to 20+degrees under load.
just find a way to manage Fuel.
so, seth...I say To you.
EVO/2g manifold, evo III turbo. EVOIII 02 housing. 2.5" mandrel downpipe, 2.5" hi-flow Cat. 3" Cat-back. K&N FIPK.. blah blah blah...
on intercooler, you have a Couple choices. stay small until you FMIC (like I did) or just go big From the go. keep to 2-2.25" piping.
get Some 1g AT DSM injectors (390CC) And a S-afc to mage your Fuel, as Well As Re-wiring your Fuel-pump (if it's not done Already!)
you will then have NO knock-control.. so you have To either drive With your head out the Window all the time, or order-up Some sort of Aftermarket setup like the J&S.
depending on how long the gap between SOHC turbo, and DOHC turbo Will be, you have to make the Call.****The Volvo is boosted to 10Psi with no intercooler, OR knock-control!!!****
then, When you have The time/funds/knowledge of turbo.. Swap over to the DOHC, DSM ECU, and tire-shredding Fun!
Originally Posted by ScootinIntegra
The walls are not much thinner at all. The actaul bore difference is so miniscule that it's not even worth talking about. With larger rings you can make up the difference, and use 1g pistons if you had to. I believe the difference in 63 and 64 bores is only a mm or so. The stroke is the main difference. Notice the RPM max points... 7k for a 63 and only 6 whatever for a 64. The advantage here however that is being ignored...
DSM transmissions! These are the problme with DSM's making power right? They break...and in fact are pretty crappy all around unless you invest some pretty high dollar parts into it, such a shep's. The beauty of a hybrid is that the same power is being made at less RPM's, which puts the weak link, the transmission, in less of a bind and results in a more stable car. The car will hold power more easily at those lower RPMs rather than tryign to run a DSM tranny to 9000 as you would with a 63.
Jeff, nice posts of the blocks and stuff...as i've told everyone from day one, that motor will be a beast. Make sure you all know and become familiar with dsmtrader.com if you all wish to purchase a hybrid such as Jeff's.
Alright Ive been doing more research on the DOHC swap and it is going to consume too much time and money. So I am just going to go for a 5spd swap and semi stock 4g63t.
Now I just need to find the perfect transmission and 4g63t. Someone told me all JDM 4g63ts were 7bolt, is that true? And would it be smart to run an AWD transmission for FWD?
7g for life!
ahh
seth.. if you're on a budget, and Don't plan on going extreme with the project, get a 5-speed Galant transmission.
they're like $300 From Car-parts.com (online junkyard search) and I've been beating the snot out of mine for a year or So...
then, save up for a DSM Transmission.
you have to use a 95+ GST/Tsi FWD transmission
Really? I didnt know they were that cheap, I may just have to do that. I still would prefer to have a GSt transmission, but I will look around and see what I can find...
Now are our axles and cv joints the same as the 2g, or at least able to handle a descent amount of power?
7g for life!
my jdm 4g63T is 6-bolt
Alright I need advice, quick! What do you gusy think of these 2 engines on eGay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...gory=33615&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...gory=33615&rd=1
Both are inconplete to a certain extent but I will be replacing the turbo and other misc things either way. One is a 6bolt the other is a 1g 7bolt so they are both pretty much clear from cwalk.
I was going to do the 5spd swap first but I found those two deals and am wanting to jump on one!
7g for life!
go with the 6bolt...i 1g 7bolt laser cwalked (west side....sorry i had too ) but seriously 7bolt 1st gens are not neccesarily clear from c(crank ) walk trust me i kno :cry:
hehe i hear yah. im gonig to watch both items and see how much they will both go for. If both go within my price range then I am definitely going to get teh 6bolt.
either way i would have to replace the exhaust manifold with a ported 2g(1gs always crack) and throw in a sbr 16g or sbr 20g and some 720cc injectors aahhhhh i cant wait!
7g for life!
550cc injectors should be fine for a big 16g. Just buy the 6-bolt, there's almost no way you'll crank walk that thing. 7-bolts are pretty easy to crankwalk, especially when driven hard. And I'm assuming you're not buying the turbo for some more "daily drivable power," right?
Good luck seth!
Not sure if I understood your question, but the car WILL be a dailey driver. And it looks like someone bought that 93 7bolt for 500 smackers so Ill have to keep a close eye on the 6bolt.
And I have yet decided on which turbo I want, most likely I will only be pushing 300whp or less...
7g for life!
yea the big 16g can support 350 so thats all u'll need ....plus the 20g will be more laggy than the 16gOriginally Posted by seth98esT
Yah, I am going to get the Greddy Profec B spec II so I can run different boost settings in different gears, ideally I want the sbr 20g. It would have enough lag for me to get SOME traction in first 2 gears and with the Profec it will allow me to get best traction possible. But I dont know if I want to spend $800 on a turbo yet.
O yah, I am also getting the BMTranny LSD insert...
So you ask, how am I going to get all my money? Well this will be a LONG project and most likely will not be fully completed untill Summer, but I do inted to have the engien swap with a small 14b to start and 5spd tranny by end of winter
7g for life!
good shyt bro...but yea...traction is an issue...remeber sabizi(sp) is breakin traction in 3rd gear with his gt3037 which is the size of 16g (tho it flow much much better )but he's also on stock steelies and skinnysOriginally Posted by seth98esT
and no LSD
Im sure if he had a descent LSD he woul be getting some traction in at least second
7g for life!
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