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Reply With Quoteur g's brain could be reseting itself after havin diconnected battery, but i would also try cleaning tb first; if u use the 'search' u'll find more info on idle probs. let us knw how it goes.
Hey, I guess I should explain from the beginning. One day out of no where I turned the key to start my engine and then everything died so I popped the hood and wiggled the negative battery terminal and then everything came back on. A couple weeks later (without any problems up until now) it did that three times in the same day and wiggling the negative would fix it everytime and then on the same day, and this never happened before, my idle went down to the normal (600-700rpm) and then it went below 500 and then 400 and then died. I just replaced the ground wire today because it was rusty and it just started doing the idle then dying thing again. Every time I'm at a light I have to throw it in neutral and rev it to stop it from dying (and then retards think I'm trying to race them lol) My friend said it could be the "air control valve" but he said hes not familiar with galants. What do you guys think is wrong with it? The car I have is an 02 I4. The only thing I did to it was put on a ram air with a cone filter and I also cut off the muffler and am running a straight pipe to the back(no comments on that please) Please help. Thanks.
ur g's brain could be reseting itself after havin diconnected battery, but i would also try cleaning tb first; if u use the 'search' u'll find more info on idle probs. let us knw how it goes.
Hey noob dont tell me to use the search. Just kidding, but seriously this is pretty specific and couldnt find shit on the same symptoms as mine. Cleaning the tb would do as much good as polishing my rims.... surprised you didnt say to clean the maf instead. Either way that isnt the problem.
i had this problem and only just fixed it, it was my spark plugs, i think they got fouled last time i changed the oil but a new set fixed that no problem.
I replaced the spark plugs when I replaced the coil pack some time last summer.
does the car shutter before it dies or just a low idle than die?
At least have a look at them, You got an I4 it will take you seconds to inspect them.Originally Posted by I4betterthanUR4
Oh yeah, I will. I think it might be a vaccuum leak somewhere. It does shutter before it dies. It actually only does it when i hit the brake. When I come to a stop using the hand brake it doesnt do it. I'm also going to test the manifold and manifold gasket with carb cleaner to see if theres a leak or crack there. If it is a vacuum leak I have no idea where to start...
The idle air control valve controls the idle when the throttle isn't in use. If the 8G TB is like the 7G then it should be mounted on the bottom of the TB. You can take it off and try to clean it with some TB cleaner to see if that helps.
when i 1st posted 2 ur Q i assusmed u checked for leaks or sum what try to trouble shoot prob before u ran for help. my bad.when my g had prob u described all i did was clean tb and change filter, maybe ur car missses its muffler noob, and if u got a leak (no manny crack)youd start by replacing gasket.
Last edited by ezekiel.glnt; 04-14-2009 at 05:39 PM
oh.. hmm.. I have the same problem with my g's... 2002 i4 and 2003 i4
The 2003 has this problem when i have my ac on.. it would go from 600-700rpm to about 100-200rpm.. and you can feel the engine shutter...
The 2002 is just like urs... it does that.. but I never had a problem with the battery.. i did check for the vacuum leak.. but could not find anything on that..
anyone know where is the iac located at? and how to clean it?
its located on tb, under port/tb inlet, dnt knw abt cleaning it though, migt hve 2buy new.
I would say you still have an electrical problem. Or the computer is still trying to reset its self from the terminal being all messed up.
I had the same problem with the battery terminals before. Make sure you replace the positive side also. Also for the negitive side there is a portion of the wire that is connected near the wheel well in the engine compartment. Make sure that little bit of wire isnt decayed through. If it is then you may have to replace the whole negitive wire.
One question, can you still restart the car with no problem after it dies. Or do you need to jump start or charge the battery?
If its the IAC motor the idle should bounce around before it dies, common problem when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, sometimes it spikes the IAC (idle air control) motor. its right under where the intake pipe connects to the tb. Just unplug it with the car off and battery still connected, leave it disconnected for a sec then plug it back in and start the car. Sometimes you can relearn them like this. the idle will still drop low for a sec but should fix itself because the iac has to relearn how to idle the car properly. DO NOT give it gas to keep it running, just let it idle itself for 5-10 minutes. Then drive it and see if it still stalls. Probably a good idea to turn your lights and air on too so it can relearn how to idle under load as well. Hope that fixes it.
I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity.
alright, for the very first time the service engine soon light came on. I diagnosed it and it came up as the air temp sensor is broken. I was told that this is in the maf and I would need to replace the entire maf for close to $600 non refundable. (I'm going to do some price shopping but I really hope its not the maf) The car starts up just fine, and after its been dying the whole day I cleaned the tb and maf and now it idles just shy off a grand but I dont think that has anything to do with the actual problem because it's been doing this on and off. What do you guys think about the maf? Sorry if this was cluttered i've been reading your responses while I type and thanks for the help I appreciate it.
Oh yeah, after spraying around the intake with carb cleaner i doubt theres a leak. You dont think a bad coil pack would cause this do you?
Last edited by I4betterthanUR4; 04-15-2009 at 01:18 AM
Hey man, no hard feelings I shouldnt even be calling anyone noob because I don't know cars in and out just enough to get me by. As far as the muff, I cut it off and welded a tip when I bought it back in the beggining of last summer so I doubt that would be it since its just now doing it.
ok .. soo I spent my entire day off today cleaning and testing the car all day... i took the iac and the tp off to clean it... now it seems to be fine... I can turn on the ac and it would not drop or go up.. the rpm remains under 1000 but above the middle line about 600-700. if I were to turn off the ac it would move up a little.. to about 650-750ish.. weather that is normal or not I would not know. I have one of those OBD II scanners I got from autozone.. it had a code of P0122 that does something with it idle.. i fixed it and erased it... now it seems to be fine.. I dont have any problems with the idling... Everything seems to be stable.. (at this point....)
Now... does the G.. rescans thru the ecu after 50 miles for problems? if that is the case I should start driving around town..
Just found this: Black Smoke
This is carbon caused by an excessively rich fuel mixture. Exhaust may smell like rotten eggs if the catalytic converter is functioning. Fuel system needs to be diagnosed.
My check engine light wasnt on this morning. Last night when my car was idling i smelt this weird smell. I went up to the exhaust and it smelt like horrible rotten eggs. Havnt noticed any black smoke but when I cleaned the tb there was a lot of build up.
yeah I think your right... for my 8th gen when I cleaned the TB i sprayed the stuff on while the engine is off and I think I flooded it so when I turned it on it blew out my idle control valve hahaha everytime I turned it on it would just die I found the idle control valve a couple feet away from my car I put it back on and everything went back to normal hehe.
Any mechanics on this board? These are the exact problems im getting.
P0113 Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high input
P0102 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0107 Manifold absolute pressure/BARO sensor low input
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