General 8G Question Thread

OK guys I'm really pissed. I spent 2 evenings after work doing timing belt and components, cam seal, crank sensor, valve cover gaskets and plugs and cleaning a lot of gunk on and around the block, also did water pump. Last night I put everything together including drive belts and poured in a gallon of coolant, soon as I'm done pouring all of it I hear fluid dripping on the floor and alot. I'm thinking damn! The bypass pipe didn't seal, checked it fine and dry all around, looked at the timing cover and its soaked entirely. Now I'm thinking my pump didn't seat right, in a shitty mood pulled everything out too see my pump did seat right with a mirror, btw pump went on the first evening so the silicone I used had 24 hrs to set. I can still see green fluid on the water pump body so now I'm thinking I got a defective pump leaking through the bearing. I had a friend compress air to the radiator neck and coolant just flys out of this stupid hole on the pump. My question is, why is that hole there? Its a new pump just dirty from handling it.
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...-53-53_589.jpg


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That is called a weep hole

A quick explanation of it

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5187372...ter-pump_.html

I would call the company for a defect part

Welp its defective. Also coolant didn't just 'weep' out it poured out.

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Well you know when you do timing belt job you always change the water pump (unless you do t-belts for another reason besides mileage)

^^Yeah, that's a new water pump he just installed yesterday and it's gushing from the weep hole. I'd be beyond pissed.

Oh I just caught that at the end of second row....... the pump just looked dirty.

Where did you get the pump, can you return it?

Yes T-belt is new and water pump too, just got dirty from handling it, the pump is from Oreilly. Was supposed to be their best, would love order a gates from rock auto but I need it asap as the car is just taking up space at my friends shop. It just sucks that it all has to come apart again. Just gonna try Napa's best pump tomorrow.

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So I'm trying to put the manual transmission back in the car. I'm inches from connecting the transmission to the engine but the trans is an inch from hitting the subframe and the pressure plate.
For you that have done the V6 swap, did you use a transmission jack? Did you use a “cherry picker”? I left the engine in the car and I've read on club3g that some people took the engine and trans in and out together. Not pictured below is if I raise it an inch the trans mount hits the frame in the wheel well. Just pissed and tired and out of ideas.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8082/8...0d82bdea_b.jpg

Hoist connected to the two factory engine mounting points and a jack to tilt the load via transmission. Disconnect all mounts and lower the whole driveline 8 inches. Trans comes off, and goes back on. Then raise it back up and bolt it in.

Getting the trans in without lowering the engine down is darn near impossible. It IS doable, but you scar the crap out of the pressure plate and risk knocking the snap ring out as well. You have to tilt the engine way down if you leave the passenger mount connected and even then it's shiesty. Like, WAY down, to the point that the harmonic balancer is touching the main frame. It's much easier just to put it on chains on the hoist and lower the whole thing down.

Thanks, I'll try it my next day off. My engine is lowered, the alternator is touching the frame on the passeger side and can't go any lower. I know somebody I can get a cherry picker from and I'll try that because this floor jack is a pain.

The second time i removed my manual trans(I4) i just lifted it up by hand and man handled it in lol.

But your tranny should go in the same way it came out.

lol, funny story, i yanked that bitch out of there

Manhandling is the easy part, it's the geometric fitting of the transmission between the installed clutch and subframe that poses the problem the 4 popper guys don't really run into. The V6 trans is a tank compared to the 4 popper.

Maybe i should of made my own thread but. Im hearing clunking noise in the suspension up front at a stop when im turning and when im moving. my strut mounts are suspicious to me. I have control arms that are 2 years old and my moog sway bar links are a couple months. I have coilovers when i turned the wheel and watched the mount i could see little movement from the strut tip but cant really tell if its bad. The noise been going on for like A year plus. And i was under the impression my coilover non pillow ball mount is different then factory (which it was).

So the real problem is where can i find a top hat so i can mate my coilover to my factory kyb strut mount? the coilover strut mount had a built in top hat that was connected to the bearing. Also when i put the coilover back together and tightened it up i havent heard any noise yet fingers crossed. Ive only drove around the block though. Im thinking of buying some ebay coilover sleeves just for the hats lol

Need to change my oil pan. To take it out, do i have to separate the transmission to get enough space to get to the bolts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gallant

Need to change my oil pan. To take it out, do i have to separate the transmission to get enough space to get to the bolts?

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Is yours a 4cyl? In the 4cyl 8g, you just need to take out the bolts holding the exhaust up and it will swing down to give you enough room to access the bolts close to the transmission. There's a metal plate (some kind of shield, don't remember the name) that also needs to come out next to the oil pan toward the drivers side that needs to come out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Exhaust power

Maybe i should of made my own thread but. Im hearing clunking noise in the suspension up front at a stop when im turning and when im moving. my strut mounts are suspicious to me. I have control arms that are 2 years old and my moog sway bar links are a couple months. I have coilovers when i turned the wheel and watched the mount i could see little movement from the strut tip but cant really tell if its bad. The noise been going on for like A year plus. And i was under the impression my coilover non pillow ball mount is different then factory (which it was).

So the real problem is where can i find a top hat so i can mate my coilover to my factory kyb strut mount? the coilover strut mount had a built in top hat that was connected to the bearing. Also when i put the coilover back together and tightened it up i havent heard any noise yet fingers crossed. Ive only drove around the block though. Im thinking of buying some ebay coilover sleeves just for the hats lol

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What top hats r u referring to?? Pics??

like the hats that sit on the springs.http://www.jayracing.com/images/prod...17-05-0720.jpg i would need something like this to run a factory mount. But as for right now i think the problem is solve no clunk up front/driver after reassembling them and tightening them pretty good. The shock must of been loose to the mount.

Why won't this work with the stock mount??

Thats the kind i need(pictured). My coilovers strut mount has a built in, inseparable top hat.

Ooo my coilovers have a separate hat. What do u have??

Nex coilovers. I dont think they exist anymore but there height and spring rate adjustable.

So in order to fit the st sway bar, I would just need to cut the metal part that'll get in the way? & could I get regular end links or would I need adjustable ones?

Evo head and stay NA?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Guzm4n

So in order to fit the st sway bar, I would just need to cut the metal part that'll get in the way? & could I get regular end links or would I need adjustable ones?

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Just get the adjustables either way

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DTP

Evo head and stay NA?

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Sure do it

I just purchased a 2000 Eclipse 3.0 that has slightly burnt fuel tank, pump, wiring etc. Trying to get a used tank/pump assembly and it appears the galant is the same as long as its the v6. Does anybody know what the difference is between the 3.0 vs 2.4 tanks?

my dashboard is cracked over by where the vents for the windshield is. when u hit a rough patch of road it makes rattling sound and i put my hand on it and it stops. . is it hard to replace the whole thing or is there a way to fix the cracked plastic?

Ive taken mine off and taken off some at the junkyard it is just time consuming! i have a spare one in the garage and just waiting to switch out after mounts get changed out. There is couple at the junkyard here in san antonio

How heavey is a 4g64/G4js full engine block? i dont want to be in over my head when i go to the junk yard and brake my back like a old man lol. I just need to lift it onto a cart then into my back seat.

If it's a bare block, it can't be that bad. I've carried my old 6g74 while bare about 30 feet to load it in my trunk myself, and I'm just a small guy. 5'4" 125lbs.

I don't know what to tell you if it still has the full rotating assembly though.

it's not that heavy, I was able to lift a bare block easily into a lifted truck, you'll be fine.

Thanks for the info guys! then it shouldnt be too hard for me then. Hope to get a engine block in the next 2 weeks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M-Rod

If it's a bare block, it can't be that bad. I've carried my old 6g74 while bare about 30 feet to load it in my trunk myself, and I'm just a small guy. 5'4" 125lbs.

I don't know what to tell you if it still has the full rotating assembly though.

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^ x2, when I fully stripped down my 6g75, after lowering the block onto a tire (with an engine hoist with the chain looped around the knock sensor), I picked up the block by hand and walked 20 feet from where the engine cart was to a shelf where the block remains today, and I'm 5'10" and 135 pounds, I'm in the same sort of strength boat as you

well, here is some basic math, with rough estimates
each cylinder head weighs around 45 to 30 pounds (wide margin of error, but an estimate)
the crankshaft weighs about 66 pounds
the main girdle weighs 13 pounds
block weighs around 110 pounds
each connecting rod, wrist pin and piston together weighs 2.6 pounds (well, 1175 grams from my scale)
add in the weight of the oil pan, oil pump, intake manifolds, the total weight of a 6g75 is around 300 poounds

I at one point weighed a block of the 64 and its came out to 130 or so. The crank was another 30-40, each piston and rod assembly is 6 pounds i think

Need new front sway bar links...go with decent grease-able ones like this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...0443_396358_0_
or how necessary are adjustable ones if I end up getting coilovers, like these but they don't look like they have grease fittings http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-06-Mitsub...afc764&vxp=mtr

Is there a way to protect the oil pan in a 8g v6? it seems very low , Im worried when I move to coils and lower it more my oil pans going to get demolished if I take a unfamiliar road.

How do you change out the doors?

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^^Take door sill trim pieces off, dig under dashboard by the door and unhook electrical connector, remove check strap bolts from the frame side of the door jamb, use a marker to mark a reference on the doors around the hinge plates, use a jack or an assistant to hold weight of the door, remove the hinge bolts on the door, remove door. Hope this helps Drew.

I have a manual for doing a transmission overhaul on my I4 5 spd Trans, it says that in order to open the trans one needs to drive a flat head screw driver through a sealing cap and take out the snap ring inside, after that snap ring and all 16 bolts it can be opened, I can't find the part number on that sealing cap on ASA so I think the dealer won't be able to order that, Anyone has that part number or is it possible to take the cap out without breaking it?

Edit: Nvmnd found it
Sealing cap p/n: MD746157

Hey guys, Is the rotors for a 2003 8g 4cyl the same size as the V6?