General 8G Question Thread

**oakrdrs187** · 01-20-2013, 01:12 PM

OK guys I'm really pissed. I spent 2 evenings after work doing timing belt and components, cam seal, crank sensor, valve cover gaskets and plugs and cleaning a lot of gunk on and around the block, also did water pump. Last night I put everything together including drive belts and poured in a gallon of coolant, soon as I'm done pouring all of it I hear fluid dripping on the floor and alot. I'm thinking damn! The bypass pipe didn't seal, checked it fine and dry all around, looked at the timing cover and its soaked entirely. Now I'm thinking my pump didn't seat right, in a shitty mood pulled everything out too see my pump did seat right with a mirror, btw pump went on the first evening so the silicone I used had 24 hrs to set. I can still see green fluid on the water pump body so now I'm thinking I got a defective pump leaking through the bearing. I had a friend compress air to the radiator neck and coolant just flys out of this stupid hole on the pump. My question is, why is that hole there? Its a new pump just dirty from handling it.

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**mrg7243** · 01-20-2013, 02:53 PM

That is called a weep hole

A quick explanation of it

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5187372...ter-pump_.html

I would call the company for a defect part

**oakrdrs187** · 01-20-2013, 04:38 PM

Welp its defective. Also coolant didn't just 'weep' out it poured out.

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**mko** · 01-20-2013, 06:58 PM

Well you know when you do timing belt job you always change the water pump (unless you do t-belts for another reason besides mileage)

**wetamup2k3g** · 01-20-2013, 07:20 PM

^^Yeah, that's a new water pump he just installed yesterday and it's gushing from the weep hole. I'd be beyond pissed.

**mko** · 01-20-2013, 07:45 PM

Oh I just caught that at the end of second row....... the pump just looked dirty.

Where did you get the pump, can you return it?

**oakrdrs187** · 01-20-2013, 09:09 PM

Yes T-belt is new and water pump too, just got dirty from handling it, the pump is from Oreilly. Was supposed to be their best, would love order a gates from rock auto but I need it asap as the car is just taking up space at my friends shop. It just sucks that it all has to come apart again. Just gonna try Napa's best pump tomorrow.

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**Black8GV6** · 02-03-2013, 03:29 PM

So I'm trying to put the manual transmission back in the car. I'm inches from connecting the transmission to the engine but the trans is an inch from hitting the subframe and the pressure plate.
For you that have done the V6 swap, did you use a transmission jack? Did you use a “cherry picker”? I left the engine in the car and I've read on club3g that some people took the engine and trans in and out together. Not pictured below is if I raise it an inch the trans mount hits the frame in the wheel well. Just pissed and tired and out of ideas.

**Silvertune** · 02-03-2013, 08:51 PM

Hoist connected to the two factory engine mounting points and a jack to tilt the load via transmission. Disconnect all mounts and lower the whole driveline 8 inches. Trans comes off, and goes back on. Then raise it back up and bolt it in.

Getting the trans in without lowering the engine down is darn near impossible. It IS doable, but you scar the crap out of the pressure plate and risk knocking the snap ring out as well. You have to tilt the engine way down if you leave the passenger mount connected and even then it's shiesty. Like, WAY down, to the point that the harmonic balancer is touching the main frame. It's much easier just to put it on chains on the hoist and lower the whole thing down.

**Black8GV6** · 02-03-2013, 10:10 PM

Thanks, I'll try it my next day off. My engine is lowered, the alternator is touching the frame on the passeger side and can't go any lower. I know somebody I can get a cherry picker from and I'll try that because this floor jack is a pain.

**Exhaust power** · 02-03-2013, 11:47 PM

The second time i removed my manual trans(I4) i just lifted it up by hand and man handled it in lol.

But your tranny should go in the same way it came out.

**Black8GV6** · 02-04-2013, 12:05 AM

lol, funny story, i yanked that bitch out of there

**Silvertune** · 02-04-2013, 09:29 AM

Manhandling is the easy part, it's the geometric fitting of the transmission between the installed clutch and subframe that poses the problem the 4 popper guys don't really run into. The V6 trans is a tank compared to the 4 popper.

**Exhaust power** · 02-12-2013, 01:42 PM

Maybe i should of made my own thread but. Im hearing clunking noise in the suspension up front at a stop when im turning and when im moving. my strut mounts are suspicious to me. I have control arms that are 2 years old and my moog sway bar links are a couple months. I have coilovers when i turned the wheel and watched the mount i could see little movement from the strut tip but cant really tell if its bad. The noise been going on for like A year plus. And i was under the impression my coilover non pillow ball mount is different then factory (which it was).

So the real problem is where can i find a top hat so i can mate my coilover to my factory kyb strut mount? the coilover strut mount had a built in top hat that was connected to the bearing. Also when i put the coilover back together and tightened it up i havent heard any noise yet fingers crossed. Ive only drove around the block though. Im thinking of buying some ebay coilover sleeves just for the hats lol

**gallant** · 02-13-2013, 06:45 AM

Need to change my oil pan. To take it out, do i have to separate the transmission to get enough space to get to the bolts?

**tamim13** · 02-13-2013, 08:34 AM

Originally Posted by gallant

Need to change my oil pan. To take it out, do i have to separate the transmission to get enough space to get to the bolts?

Is yours a 4cyl? In the 4cyl 8g, you just need to take out the bolts holding the exhaust up and it will swing down to give you enough room to access the bolts close to the transmission. There's a metal plate (some kind of shield, don't remember the name) that also needs to come out next to the oil pan toward the drivers side that needs to come out.

**spdracr** · 02-13-2013, 08:33 PM

Originally Posted by Exhaust power

Maybe i should of made my own thread but. Im hearing clunking noise in the suspension up front at a stop when im turning and when im moving. my strut mounts are suspicious to me. I have control arms that are 2 years old and my moog sway bar links are a couple months. I have coilovers when i turned the wheel and watched the mount i could see little movement from the strut tip but cant really tell if its bad. The noise been going on for like A year plus. And i was under the impression my coilover non pillow ball mount is different then factory (which it was).

So the real problem is where can i find a top hat so i can mate my coilover to my factory kyb strut mount? the coilover strut mount had a built in top hat that was connected to the bearing. Also when i put the coilover back together and tightened it up i havent heard any noise yet fingers crossed. Ive only drove around the block though. Im thinking of buying some ebay coilover sleeves just for the hats lol

What top hats r u referring to?? Pics??

**Exhaust power** · 02-13-2013, 10:28 PM

like the hats that sit on the springs.

i would need something like this to run a factory mount. But as for right now i think the problem is solve no clunk up front/driver after reassembling them and tightening them pretty good. The shock must of been loose to the mount.