Long bolt MD327592Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Short bolt MF140233
Galant pump MN101149
Evo pump MR554841
They don't looked the same.
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Long bolt MD327592Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Short bolt MF140233
Galant pump MN101149
Evo pump MR554841
They don't looked the same.
Nothing like an 8g on meaty tires, clean
Using a degree wheel and piston stop will help you find the true TDC of the piston. The real issue with the headswap is the cam timing and not so much the bottom end. At the end of the day, your real cam timing wont be dialed in perfectly until your on a dyno and you can watch the powerband move. The only 100% way to get it zero'd on an engine stand is by using a dial indicator and 4 solid lifters on the #1 cylinder to degree the cams properly. I will tell you there is alot of room for error. You can go like 6 degrees in either direction without making piston to valve contact.
Regarding the fender flares. I used 3M tape on the rubber to car side and 3m tape and some 3M panel bonding adhesive on each end of the rubber on the rubber to flare side. I also used a small screw on the bottom of the flare where it overlaps the edge of the quarter panel near the rear door.
Regarding using the Fluidamper, good luck. I didn't get one because it's such a PITA to convert everything over to a 5 rib belt. I think if you used an EVO power steering bracket & pump, EVO alternator pulley, EVO water pump pulley it should work. You may need to shim, space stuff a little. I've never had a EVO a/c compressor in my hand so not sure how the connections look. I personally think the Fluidamper is meant for engines going beyond 8500 RPMs. It's job is to save the crank from violent vibrations to prevent the crank from cracking or damaging the main bearings. Just look at the amount of people making 550+ whp and revving the death of out the 2.0 EVO motors on stock pulleys with no issues.
Thanks man. I'm still curious if the pump body is the same though. Even though it has a different part number, it could just be for the pulley differences itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracr
Thanks bro!Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thLS6
The problem is i gotta get it dead on because i have to break in the motor, before the dyno run, which is an 8hr drive away...Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
I wont be using a/c so thats not an issue. Id rather have piece of mind on the motor, than just leave it alone lol. But i got it figured out. I have a feeling i will have to space out thr alternator pulley maybe a 1/4 at the most.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Breaking in the engine with the cams slightly off a degree or two isn't going to hurt anything during break in. During break in your just seating the rings. The tune plays more of a role in break in because if it's too rich, you'll wash the walls down with fuel and the rings won't wear in well. Ive done 3 or 4 of these setups and not a single one has had any break in problems. If your running a BB turbo be sure to run an inline filter during break in and check it often since there will be small amounts of metal in the oil from everything wearing in.
Regarding the water pump, I think the EVO pump is the same bolt pattern, but I don't think it completely covers the coolant hole in the block. I know English Racing sells a modded one, pretty sure they just weld into the edge and machine it so it covers the hole totally. I had that same problem when I had my EVO VII engine, the EVO8 pump didnt cover the hole on the block fully.
The fuel washing the walls is yeah, a big worry. just gotta figure out how to start the g with the evo ecu
the evo water pump is the same bolt pattern, BUT it uses 2 long bolts because the alternator bracket uses it with a nut. so it goes through the block, out the other side, and then the bracket slides on. I'm just using a water pump spacer from MAP.
OK, need some help as i am confuzeled..... Pin 9and pin 10 are shorted to make the car be electrically in neutral, so you can crank it. Now this is the confusing part. Pin 10 ultimately ends up being the starter solenoid, and pin 9 the yellow and black one, goes to the ignition. But there is the starter pin on the ecu that gives voltage?, to this switch so to speak. This is my question, i have a complete circuit with out the wire from the ecu: which goes from the ignition switch, through thr c17 connector, and then is connected (shorted) to the pin 10 wire red/black, which that goes to the starter soleniod. So does the ecu in fact just send power, so that the ignition has power to start? Thats why im confused..
I think i got my answer. The red wire to the starter is a ground for the soleniod. Which is also the ground for the ignition?
Finally, after waiting since April i got it..
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-54-46_752.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-55-06_841.jpg
Damn that looks nice
DANM, looks like a Transformer symbol for the Autobots,
I need help. What is it?
The tooling could have been a little better but I'm ok with it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by carl3g
Lol that's what i said when i opened itQuote:
Originally Posted by finald8ta
It its the frontline fabrications billet aluminum 2g rear diff cover. I ordered the steel one in April, then got an email saying they didn't make that anymore, this replaced that.Quote:
Originally Posted by wetamup2k3g
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-02-53_257.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-21-56_892.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-09-42_750.jpg
Drill out the baffling to install -10 an adapters
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-42-50_488.jpg
I don't see where u drilled for the -10 an adapter
That's because i forgot to pick it up lol. Anybody know how to remove pressed in fittings from the valve cover?
Looks real good makes me wish I never sold the rear end to you but I was spending to much on it already
I like pictures. O_O
Ok is an oil cooler required?
At the very least yes. You may or may not need a fan on it depending on where you put it, if it's up front by the radiator you should be set with just a basic external cooler setup. It will prolong the life of your oil (and turbo) as well as knock out a lot of your cool down time whether you're driving or idling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
grab the fitting with vicegrips and wiggle it back and forth til it comes out. or cut it and drill it out
Hmmm...
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-40-38_777.jpg
Ok i have three connections...
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-41-04_171.jpg
What do i need/not need, no egr at all...
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...-56-37_649.jpg
You need all 3, nothing to do with egr..
Ok well there is four on the filler neck... You can t see it in the pic, the small and large are granted easy...but the 2 middle sized tubes, i only have one on the tank... It looks like I'm missing some sort of canister up by the rear tire
Is this a gsx neck?
Yes... Found the part number on dsmtuning, and i used a gsx vin so it should be.... I'm gonna shoot a cracker if it isn't!
just make sure it looks like the one in my build. other than that just connect one of the thin tubes to the one that comes off the tank. and plug the other one
Well i know the 95-97 are diff then 98 and 99. I have a 97
Yakayakayaka I like pic a tures :D lol
Lookin good.
Thanks man, just need a evo power steering pump. Cams are getting ordered tomorrow.
actually, got a pondering question... how much hp/tq can these prothane mounts hold? or actually, when is a good time to go solid mounts? and if I go solid mounts, can I just to the front and rear tranny mounts, and leave the engine and side trany mount prothane, so it isn't as "harsh" as all solid mounts? I think I'm going to have to go solid, but I dont want the whole dam dash vibrating lol
Hey bro the 90s f150s and broncos have a big ass tranny cooler that should work as an oil cooler that's what I picked up pics in my heart transplant thread
I would but i kinda picky and like things new and clean...
Well I'm nearing 500 torque and I have elongated the holes in my Prothane mounts. I'm getting Energy suspension solid bushings to replace them since the Prothanes have those relief holes to put more give in them. Just that little play has lead to me bending the steel mounting bracket and I have not even power shifted it yet.
That said IIWY get solid bushings if you can, I'm not entirely sure what's available for the Evo. Since you have the four you'll still get plenty of vibration but it won't feel like you're sittings on a type writer like solid mounts will. They're cheap and it's not like you can't upgrade if you blow them.
Im using a Energy suspension front mount, pro thane side mounts (no holes, solid) and a torque solutions solid rear mount. As soon as you go to a solid rear mount, the dash is going to vibrate, no way to avoid it.
Which cams are you going with? I started with HKS 272's which suck, swapped to the GSC S2's and now this winter im going to switch to S3's. If you power goal is 550+whp I would go straight to an S3. Im hoping for big gains after winter. I ended up with 557awhp with a small FMIC, stock TB, lightly ported stock Intake mani and S2's. Im going to a 75mm TB, AMS F1 intake manifold, S3's and a 24x10.5x3.5 FMIC, I should pick up a solid 75-100awhp with those changes at the same boost level. I've been looking at a lot of 2.4 tuning threads on EVOM, these motors love huge cams. It seems to be all about letting the engine breath up above 6,000RPMs.
Hmm good point, I'm just worried about tcase knock. I might go gave to change the front and rear mounts to energy suspension then if they have no Holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
I went with s3s lol. They gonna idle Nice! Why not magnus v5 with boomba? You should pick up more then 100 imo from that swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewi
Is your head ported? You can't fit a 4 inch intercooler? I'm trying to fit a 27x12x5 inch but i think it will be 4.5 so it doesn't rub on the frame lol and i can't find one so ets has to make mine. The only thing I'm curious about is spool up time with the s3s
Which short block are you building? You're going to want to rev way up with the S3's.
Also, what size charge piping are you using? You don't want to go too big or you'll sacrifice a lot of speed in spool time and loss of efficiency.
A big intercooler is important but air flow through it is just as much so. If you get air through it you'd be fine with a 3.5 inch unless you're going for way more power then I think you are. I'm going to have to start from page one!