Galantman03's 8G Build

**spdracr** · 08-28-2012, 03:19 AM

Originally Posted by Galantman03

I cannot find the alternator tensioner bolts, the long one and the short one. I have caps, cannot locate them, any ideas? Also, do the evo and galant use the same power steering pump?

Long bolt MD327592
Short bolt MF140233

Galant pump MN101149
Evo pump MR554841
They don't looked the same.

**8thLS6** · 08-31-2012, 11:03 PM

Nothing like an 8g on meaty tires, clean

**Stewi** · 09-04-2012, 07:42 AM

Using a degree wheel and piston stop will help you find the true TDC of the piston. The real issue with the headswap is the cam timing and not so much the bottom end. At the end of the day, your real cam timing wont be dialed in perfectly until your on a dyno and you can watch the powerband move. The only 100% way to get it zero'd on an engine stand is by using a dial indicator and 4 solid lifters on the #1 cylinder to degree the cams properly. I will tell you there is alot of room for error. You can go like 6 degrees in either direction without making piston to valve contact.

Regarding the fender flares. I used 3M tape on the rubber to car side and 3m tape and some 3M panel bonding adhesive on each end of the rubber on the rubber to flare side. I also used a small screw on the bottom of the flare where it overlaps the edge of the quarter panel near the rear door.

**Stewi** · 09-04-2012, 07:52 AM

Regarding using the Fluidamper, good luck. I didn't get one because it's such a PITA to convert everything over to a 5 rib belt. I think if you used an EVO power steering bracket & pump, EVO alternator pulley, EVO water pump pulley it should work. You may need to shim, space stuff a little. I've never had a EVO a/c compressor in my hand so not sure how the connections look. I personally think the Fluidamper is meant for engines going beyond 8500 RPMs. It's job is to save the crank from violent vibrations to prevent the crank from cracking or damaging the main bearings. Just look at the amount of people making 550+ whp and revving the death of out the 2.0 EVO motors on stock pulleys with no issues.

**Galantman03** · 09-04-2012, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by spdracr

Long bolt MD327592
Short bolt MF140233

Galant pump MN101149
Evo pump MR554841
They don't looked the same.

Thanks man. I'm still curious if the pump body is the same though. Even though it has a different part number, it could just be for the pulley differences itself.

Originally Posted by 8thLS6

Nothing like an 8g on meaty tires, clean

Thanks bro!

Originally Posted by Stewi

Using a degree wheel and piston stop will help you find the true TDC of the piston. The real issue with the headswap is the cam timing and not so much the bottom end. At the end of the day, your real cam timing wont be dialed in perfectly until your on a dyno and you can watch the powerband move. The only 100% way to get it zero'd on an engine stand is by using a dial indicator and 4 solid lifters on the #1 cylinder to degree the cams properly. I will tell you there is alot of room for error. You can go like 6 degrees in either direction without making piston to valve contact.

Regarding the fender flares. I used 3M tape on the rubber to car side and 3m tape and some 3M panel bonding adhesive on each end of the rubber on the rubber to flare side. I also used a small screw on the bottom of the flare where it overlaps the edge of the quarter panel near the rear door.

The problem is i gotta get it dead on because i have to break in the motor, before the dyno run, which is an 8hr drive away...

Originally Posted by Stewi

Regarding using the Fluidamper, good luck. I didn't get one because it's such a PITA to convert everything over to a 5 rib belt. I think if you used an EVO power steering bracket & pump, EVO alternator pulley, EVO water pump pulley it should work. You may need to shim, space stuff a little. I've never had a EVO a/c compressor in my hand so not sure how the connections look. I personally think the Fluidamper is meant for engines going beyond 8500 RPMs. It's job is to save the crank from violent vibrations to prevent the crank from cracking or damaging the main bearings. Just look at the amount of people making 550+ whp and revving the death of out the 2.0 EVO motors on stock pulleys with no issues.

I wont be using a/c so thats not an issue. Id rather have piece of mind on the motor, than just leave it alone lol. But i got it figured out. I have a feeling i will have to space out thr alternator pulley maybe a 1/4 at the most.

**Stewi** · 09-06-2012, 05:38 AM

Breaking in the engine with the cams slightly off a degree or two isn't going to hurt anything during break in. During break in your just seating the rings. The tune plays more of a role in break in because if it's too rich, you'll wash the walls down with fuel and the rings won't wear in well. Ive done 3 or 4 of these setups and not a single one has had any break in problems. If your running a BB turbo be sure to run an inline filter during break in and check it often since there will be small amounts of metal in the oil from everything wearing in.

**Stewi** · 09-06-2012, 05:49 AM

Regarding the water pump, I think the EVO pump is the same bolt pattern, but I don't think it completely covers the coolant hole in the block. I know English Racing sells a modded one, pretty sure they just weld into the edge and machine it so it covers the hole totally. I had that same problem when I had my EVO VII engine, the EVO8 pump didnt cover the hole on the block fully.

**Galantman03** · 09-06-2012, 11:56 AM

The fuel washing the walls is yeah, a big worry. just gotta figure out how to start the g with the evo ecu
the evo water pump is the same bolt pattern, BUT it uses 2 long bolts because the alternator bracket uses it with a nut. so it goes through the block, out the other side, and then the bracket slides on. I'm just using a water pump spacer from MAP.

**Galantman03** · 09-08-2012, 03:29 PM

OK, need some help as i am confuzeled..... Pin 9and pin 10 are shorted to make the car be electrically in neutral, so you can crank it. Now this is the confusing part. Pin 10 ultimately ends up being the starter solenoid, and pin 9 the yellow and black one, goes to the ignition. But there is the starter pin on the ecu that gives voltage?, to this switch so to speak. This is my question, i have a complete circuit with out the wire from the ecu: which goes from the ignition switch, through thr c17 connector, and then is connected (shorted) to the pin 10 wire red/black, which that goes to the starter soleniod. So does the ecu in fact just send power, so that the ignition has power to start? Thats why im confused..

**Galantman03** · 09-08-2012, 03:53 PM

I think i got my answer. The red wire to the starter is a ground for the soleniod. Which is also the ground for the ignition?

**Galantman03** · 09-12-2012, 07:59 PM

Finally, after waiting since April i got it..

**carl3g** · 09-12-2012, 08:25 PM

Damn that looks nice

**finald8ta** · 09-12-2012, 08:32 PM

DANM, looks like a Transformer symbol for the Autobots,

**wetamup2k3g** · 09-12-2012, 08:49 PM

I need help. What is it?

**Galantman03** · 09-12-2012, 08:57 PM

Originally Posted by carl3g

Damn that looks nice

The tooling could have been a little better but I'm ok with it lol

Originally Posted by finald8ta

DANM, looks like a Transformer symbol for the Autobots,

Lol that's what i said when i opened it

Originally Posted by wetamup2k3g

I need help. What is it?

It its the frontline fabrications billet aluminum 2g rear diff cover. I ordered the steel one in April, then got an email saying they didn't make that anymore, this replaced that.