6 MAJOR things left to purchase that is all.... :) I'm going to hide in my cave now lol
Printable View
6 MAJOR things left to purchase that is all.... :) I'm going to hide in my cave now lol
Yes! I'm pumped. This summer/fall is going to be awesome.
YOU KNOW IT! I hope I don't break anything lol. Tcase will be sent off in late april/early may, and around that time frame I should be picking up something new to us galants. Right now I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do the break in....
^ +x2 on that. same here. LOL. Low boost and take it nice and slow. I'm going with amsoil break in oil. 20 miles, change oil and filter, then fresh break in oil for another 1K or so. Also try to run on the lean side since you dont want to wash the piston ring with too much fuel.
I'm looking forward to see what this new thing may be.
Also, I'm just curious, but would it be possible to run a temporary MAF setup while on low boost just to break in the engine and work out the speed density from there?
Yes. Possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
A good 500 mile break in then switch to synthetic and go ham. I want to see this car this year! Too bad it won't be ready for the MN dyno day!
The best way to break in engine is not by taking it easy. The rings will not seal properly due to not enough heat expansion.
Do a few WOT pulls in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear after it idles up to operational temp. Try to stay in boost more than being in vacuum.
Slowing down in gear doesnt create heat moreover it cools the engine down. It needs heat to achieve maximum expansion of different components.
Engine needs to be heat cycled a few times before it sees the road. Then 75 miles of up and down, easy throttle and no constant RPMs. Then run a tank or two of gas through it hard. Don't redline it for the first couple hundred miles but still get on it really good to get the rings seated and the bearings tempered up. If you run it hard you'll be set to put synthetic in it at 500 miles no problem. Change frequently and have a good PCV setup and your engine will literally never see carbon outside the exhaust tracks.
Least that's how my engines have been broken in.
When i say take it easy. I mean boost wise. U cant start with 15-20lb of boost at breaking.
Thats my main concernQuote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
its pretty cool. lol. it would be possible BUT since I went SD, and wire tucked my bay, I just got rid of all the extra wires I didn't need, including the rest of the maf :(Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
Thats the plan. Whens the dyno day?Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
Acutally MAP says to have about 50/50 boost and vacuum. its not a stock rebuild, its forged internals so its going to be alot looser.Quote:
Originally Posted by mko
I'm going to follow map instructions, they are pretty straight forward. I don't have a pvc set up :) catch can VTA FTW!Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertune
why not? its built for 40+psi :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaurio
Full Blown
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps77bd00d0.jpg
Muffler
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps997c07c0.jpg
BOV
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps3ebab1fa.jpg
Fuel pump rewire kit
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps66e0602b.jpg
Colder T-Stat
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psd6017176.jpg
Intercooler-Ill try to get a better pic
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps6bdf606c.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps7bb8b8f3.jpg
If you want to return the fuel pump assembly, I'm selling mine brand new for 300
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
I would but its to much of a hassle with me being on the other side of the world right now. Thanks for the offer though.
Long Time over due, but it was worth the wait, especially since it was first drawn up in a cad program to this. Big thanks to Marc!
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psc291f6f7.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps49607b46.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps3c669226.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps1d6d4eee.jpg
I remember that drawing, that's dope to see it come to fruition.
T-case- Beast mode
Driveshaft 55 3/16" long
injectors 2150cc
turbo-PTE anybody figure it out which one yet?
TUBULER front subframe
Intercooler piping
SS exhaust piping
If anybody is looking for some crazy deals on ss and intercooler piping go to frozenboost.com
Ok curious as i cannot find any info on this, but do you have to seal the injector seals with rtv?
Also, do I need an oil restrictor for a BB turbo? whats better head, or oil pressure housing for the feed line? I have seen both reviews, and I'm up in the air i guess.
And I'm getting excited to get back home lol... even though its like 2 months away
Long time i get on here
What are the chances
We used to be on this forum every day :/
No rtv on the injectors. New seals should do the jobQuote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Oil restrictor if you using a ball bearing turbo and using -4 AN
Feed for turbo use the evo oil housing get better pressure from there.
Im glad you keeping up the project.
I'm not giving up man, i just can't physically work on the car right now lol.
Doing lots of r&d though
Really glad I could help bro :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
any updates?
He's still deployed.Quote:
Originally Posted by evo_powered_galant
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Well Hellooooooo There!
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psbd8a1bcf.jpg
Some Pics Today.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps152fc39b.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psa0ae1595.jpg
perfect Fit
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4a8b38df.jpg
Looks like someone is on leave... Welcome back sir now finish that fuckin monster!
YESSS! Let's do thisss!
ID 2000s installed
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps114743f9.jpg
originally I wanted to have the sender unit on the pump side, BUT it wouldn't fit with the baffle inside the tank. I also ohmed out the gsx unit and it was bad. So being a mad scientist, I devised a plan. I used the galant sender unit as well as the fuel temp har har har. The pivot point of the float is pretty dang close the the gsx original location. Well me being picky I had to had a clean install right? so I used the connector, cut and soldered the wires that I needed. But I had to add a pin for the temp sender, and a left over pin for an injector fits perfect into the connector.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psc97fe3b9.jpg
-8 and -10 lines installed up to where the front subframe is installed. I waiting for a front subframe to come in, and I don't know the clearance for the hose yet, that's what the fuel lines aren't 100% installed.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps531d547c.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8ef30e5e.jpg
rear axles rated for 800 to 900 hp from what I was told
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps22cc7db8.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...psde69f3cd.jpg
was going to install them but I guess I forgot to order the rear boots lol so I have to wait on that.
I also wired up 2 fuel pump rewire kits, and I need a little help as I am tired and can't seem to grasp this.
It has me tap into the 12v pump power as the trigger, and then then other side of that on the relay goes the the pump itself. and then I have a lead wire for the battery. NOW, I have a ground on the relay, is it for the relay? or for the ground for the pump it self?
Good progress.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
For the pump i know. Brian or Roman could help out with the pump wiring.
Ground on the relay should be for the relay itself. The battery lead goes in then out since the relay is simply a switch for the pump circuit, it'll be a + cable going in and out so the one ground on the relay is for your relay trip circuit.
ok cool so that means the gounds from the pumps go to the harness side ground (the original ground for the original pump)
^^^ You could say that. Long story short the pump and the relay need to be grounded to the car, not to each other.
Ohhhhh its about that time again! *rubs hands together*
Welcome back! How soon do you expect it to have this thing on the road?
Yeah, I couldn't find the diagram on my computer....Quote:
Originally Posted by oakrdrs187
Mmmhmmm! You know it! muahahaha! BTW Dude, that catch can is epic! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Ivory8g
Thanks Matt. Well like always, I would like to ASAP. BUT I'm waiting on 5 things right now, my fricken manifold that I ordered in April, my tcase with a wave trac, front subframe that should be done in about 2 weeks, and the driveshaft. after that its exhaust and piping and then start her up. I would like to have it done and started tuning end of sept, but we shall see how that pans out. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by M-Rod
lookin good. whats the length on that intercooler endtank to endtank not including the in and outlet. it looks like it fits perfect
dude 35 inches end tank to end tank. 26 x 12 x 4 is the core size. 44 inches total length. it fits like a glove its perfect haha
Heck yeah! Cant wait to see it in the bay. Man we got it done in the nick of time cause that guy left and is travelling now lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galantman03
Well finally got around to take the stuff in to get it welded. intercooler is still there getting 2 more brackets welded up.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8c833a56.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps380e7bbb.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps7786972a.jpg
Also ran into a snag. I have a gsx rear sway bar and then yesterday I had me sway bar arms or lower control arms come in and no matter which way I move the bar or even flip it around, the sway bar hits the cv boot. what gives? ( I know the bar is installed wrong in the pic)
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps5598ea22.jpg
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4701af0b.jpg
Now that's fuckin weird... I had a problem that the car was so low that the rrm swaybar sat on the control arm and bent one of them, but that was it. Look at my pics and see if you are missing something
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4
How low are you trying to go with it? I've only seen that happen when they're damn near laying frame.
What kind of tie bars are those?
those are Cali's adjustable toe arms. work pretty cool
my work around on the sway bar issue.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps165dc9f8.jpg
and the wavetrac has arrived.
http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps09c2f8fc.jpg