first off, always run HID through relay harnesses that draw power directly from the battery. 99% of HID failure is caused by skipping this step and just doing the plug-and-play route... plug-and-play is fine for cars that were wired originally for HID since those circuits were made to handle HID's requirements, but for cars converting from halogen, the OE wiring is NOT up to the task of delivering the power needed by HID. when HID initializes and ignites it draws a huge amount of power (20amp-30amp spike - albeit for a very short duration) then "warms up" and runs on a much lower power level of 5amp-10amp, but this burst of load is way too much for the stock wiring which was never meant to supply it. subsequently one side can be "starved" as the other monopolizes the available power; ballasts do not react will to being under-powered or not being steadily powered (HID hates being flashed often because of intermittent power) and this will cause premature failure of both ballasts and bulbs first resulting in "flickering" and then total failure.
here are my headlights and fogs all on at once:
HID 6K H7 low, HID 6K H1 hi, HID 6K H3 projector fog (all MCCULLUCH). 3 HID pairs, 3 relay harnesses.
1. H7 HID without adapter. adapter will not fit because the HID has it's own wires going from the ballast to the capsules.
2. H1 HID without adapter. to correct the H4 single filament to H7 low/H1 hi you can either run a diode bridge between the turn on leads of your low beam and high single beam harnesses (this is how i have mine wired). basically a diode is like a one way power valve so when the high beam is activated, the diode allows power to run from the high beam turn on lead to the low beam turn on lead to keep the low beams on, but the diode keeps the low beam turn on lead from turning on the high beam lead when the hi beams are not activated... the result is low beams work like normal when headlights are turned on, then when you hit your high beams, all four lights will work simultaneously (adding the high beams). read my JDM headlight tutorial for specific wiring and diagrams here:
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?14544
alternately they now make conversion harnesses specifically to do this all for you by plugging right into the OE H4 harness (these were not available when i did my conversion):
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=14027
for the above harness, you would run your H7 low beam directly off the "ballast" connection and then run an additional H1 harness off the "bi-xenon solenoid output (which is meant to open a shutter inside bi-xenon projectors to change the beam patter to high beam when the high beams are activated). you may want to call them (TRS) to see if you can run the H1 ballasts directly off of the "bi-xenon solenoid" outputs, but personally i would just add the additional harness to make sure the high beam ballasts had enough power.
3. ASTIG and 02REDGALANT both made work-arounds to accomplish the original JDM turning flood functionality (outer bulb stays on steady to the side you are signalling to):
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?40355
4. HID color is described in terms of Kelvin (K), which is actually a temperature, hence color temp. sunlight is between 4K and 6K (depending on conditions like sun position and cloud cover). all OE HID falls into this range with the great majority sitting around 4250K which delivers the best performance in terms of brightness (lumens) and reflectivity (what is able to be perceived by the human eye). as you go further away from 4250K, both the brightness and reflectivity go down; anything over 6K should be reserved for car show use as they do not work well in driving situations because (although they might look cool) they are both much dimmer when compared to 4250K and the visible light reflecting off objects is also greatly reduced). 4250K is slightly yellow white, 5K is pure white, and 6K is slightly blue white. 3K is yellow and will cut through fog and rain to reflect off objects and the road without reflecting back off the fog/rain... i would on recommend 3K for fogs or auxiliary driving lights, not for use as primary headlights. also, regular halogen headlights (and even halogen projectors) were never meant to control the pattern leak of much brighter HID output so there will be some (maybe even alot of) glare to oncoming traffic. vehicles equipped with HID in reflector housings from the factory (non projector) still have a much tighter cutoff than halogen versions to avoid this.
5. the bulb sizes for the parking/signal lights in the corner of our USDM headlights is 1157; these also fit and work as stock in the JDM headlights; there are LED replacements that will work as stock in this size. i do not have JDM facelift fogs so i can't comment on those bulb sizes but they are listed elsewhere on this site.
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