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  1. #1

    Question for members running hid's on jdm headlights

    Hey guys;

    I am finally ready to install HID's on my car. As you all know, I have a full JDM conversion and I was wondering if I could ask a couple of questions:

    1.- Are any of you running an H7 HID kit for the low beams using the original OEM H7 adapter these JDM headlights come with....or not using the adapter all together and using a different bulb for the low beams?

    2.- Is Anyone running HID's on their high beams? if so, what bulb? and is there a way to set them up so when you turn on the high beams, the low beams "do not" turn off automatically?

    3.-Does anyone have the chart on how to install/getting to work the outer lights on the new style VR4 fogs as directional lights when turn signals are activated?....as originally intended on JDM cars....

    4.- What's the best recommended "K" kelvin for these HID headlights? I live in MA, so I am not sure if I will have any problems with state troopers or passing inspection. I was thinking that maybe I want them to be close to what the EVO's/Outlanders come from factory....my wife has an 09 Outlander with OEM HID's but it does not have projectors as the newer model Outlander, and they look great! So, I don't think I need projectors....maybe in the future....

    5.- At last, what are the # for the bulbs needed to replace all other oem with LED's (parking lights, turn signals, driving lights, fog light corner lights)

    Your help and suggestions will be appreciated!


    2003 MITSUBISHI GALANT GTZ

  2. #2
    first off, always run HID through relay harnesses that draw power directly from the battery. 99% of HID failure is caused by skipping this step and just doing the plug-and-play route... plug-and-play is fine for cars that were wired originally for HID since those circuits were made to handle HID's requirements, but for cars converting from halogen, the OE wiring is NOT up to the task of delivering the power needed by HID. when HID initializes and ignites it draws a huge amount of power (20amp-30amp spike - albeit for a very short duration) then "warms up" and runs on a much lower power level of 5amp-10amp, but this burst of load is way too much for the stock wiring which was never meant to supply it. subsequently one side can be "starved" as the other monopolizes the available power; ballasts do not react will to being under-powered or not being steadily powered (HID hates being flashed often because of intermittent power) and this will cause premature failure of both ballasts and bulbs first resulting in "flickering" and then total failure.

    here are my headlights and fogs all on at once:


    HID 6K H7 low, HID 6K H1 hi, HID 6K H3 projector fog (all MCCULLUCH). 3 HID pairs, 3 relay harnesses.

    1. H7 HID without adapter. adapter will not fit because the HID has it's own wires going from the ballast to the capsules.

    2. H1 HID without adapter. to correct the H4 single filament to H7 low/H1 hi you can either run a diode bridge between the turn on leads of your low beam and high single beam harnesses (this is how i have mine wired). basically a diode is like a one way power valve so when the high beam is activated, the diode allows power to run from the high beam turn on lead to the low beam turn on lead to keep the low beams on, but the diode keeps the low beam turn on lead from turning on the high beam lead when the hi beams are not activated... the result is low beams work like normal when headlights are turned on, then when you hit your high beams, all four lights will work simultaneously (adding the high beams). read my JDM headlight tutorial for specific wiring and diagrams here:

    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?14544

    Quote Originally Posted by Reelax View Post
    ...
    there r 2 positive wires that go to your H7 an H1 bulbs... u want to bridge those wires w/ a diode. a diode basically is like a one-way-valve for current. you want to have the high beams (+) send power to the low beams (+), but not vice versa so that when you hit your brights, your lows stay on drawing power from the highs; not the other way around.



    http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp

    you want the ANODE side (no stripe) connected to the high beam positive (H1) and the CATHODE side (w/ stripe) connected to the low beam positivem H7). i soldered the diode to a short length of insulated wire at each end to lengthen it then wrapped the diode in electrical tape. you can simply splice these wire leads into the harness on the wires that lead to the bulbs.

    the diodes you want are rated for 12VDC. you can get them at any electronics store like radio shack.

    ...
    alternately they now make conversion harnesses specifically to do this all for you by plugging right into the OE H4 harness (these were not available when i did my conversion):

    http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...ducts_id=14027

    for the above harness, you would run your H7 low beam directly off the "ballast" connection and then run an additional H1 harness off the "bi-xenon solenoid output (which is meant to open a shutter inside bi-xenon projectors to change the beam patter to high beam when the high beams are activated). you may want to call them (TRS) to see if you can run the H1 ballasts directly off of the "bi-xenon solenoid" outputs, but personally i would just add the additional harness to make sure the high beam ballasts had enough power.

    3. ASTIG and 02REDGALANT both made work-arounds to accomplish the original JDM turning flood functionality (outer bulb stays on steady to the side you are signalling to):

    Quote Originally Posted by ASTIG View Post
    I have made them work, but the circuit I made is not hooked up yet. I made it over winter and tested it. works good. the outer lights only come on when the turn signal is activated. And it shuts off about half a second after the turn signal is deactivated. I will hook them up sometime this week.

    this is the circuit that I made. I'll try to find the diagram. Trigger is the turn signal. the capacitors are there to hold the charge (voltage) during the off cycle of the blinker so the relay will get 12v.


    here is the diagram.
    https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?40355

    Quote Originally Posted by 02redgalant View Post
    what's this for??
    ok new style have two beams as you can see...fog light is easy to make work,but the turn flood wiring is non existant which what this thread is for...the turn flood is supposed to stay constantly on while the turn signal is flashing...


    DO it at your own risk You messing up= not my fault
    your gonna need

    two spdt relays $10
    4 rectifying diodes $3
    4 4700UF capacitors $16-$20
    2 resistors $3
    tons of heat shrink $6
    2 packs of 14 guage wiring $6
    rosin core $2
    wire loom(recommended) or rap it in electrical tape

    and HOURS of Free Time & patience lol




    this is what I used



    now this is how i prepped them its essential that you Identify which side is negative on the capacitors..if you don't these things can explode no bueno...also this setup requires a 10,000uf capacitor good luck find it at radioshack but you can take two 4700 and TIE them together..not independent very important as shown..make sure you place the diode correctly,resistors do not have polarity...


    this is the simple layout that Astig made (thx)

    86-turn sign
    85-ground
    30-fused battery
    87-flood light

    now if you run it exactly how it is...your turn floods will turn on ALL the time....which is what you don't want...so your gonna have to run an additional relay (total of 3 relays now)
    you can connect it to the Parking Light/hazards or Low Beam ..doing that it only allows is it to come on at night....FUSED of course




    heres mine
    this will not work for 99% of you since you haven't created a hid headlight harness....basically my setup doesn't use stock wiring to power my headlights it uses direct from the battery..so that leaves my stock wiring unused which is why I run the turn floods directly off them...


    I honestly can't urge you enough if you attempt this to make sure your soldering skills are solid,after its cold pull your connections make sure there solid...imagine these things are gonna feel all the vibrations and bumps driving which can take a toll on a crappy job ultimately connections separating or even worse a SHORT..and USE heatshrink to cover your soldering!!!!! not electrical tape it was not designed for that!!

    were did a mount my relays?
    behind the fenders through the opening to the hood compartment..this way if relay goes bad i can easily swap it..

    and the end result
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ip-Up-lkUY


    ...
    4. HID color is described in terms of Kelvin (K), which is actually a temperature, hence color temp. sunlight is between 4K and 6K (depending on conditions like sun position and cloud cover). all OE HID falls into this range with the great majority sitting around 4250K which delivers the best performance in terms of brightness (lumens) and reflectivity (what is able to be perceived by the human eye). as you go further away from 4250K, both the brightness and reflectivity go down; anything over 6K should be reserved for car show use as they do not work well in driving situations because (although they might look cool) they are both much dimmer when compared to 4250K and the visible light reflecting off objects is also greatly reduced). 4250K is slightly yellow white, 5K is pure white, and 6K is slightly blue white. 3K is yellow and will cut through fog and rain to reflect off objects and the road without reflecting back off the fog/rain... i would on recommend 3K for fogs or auxiliary driving lights, not for use as primary headlights. also, regular halogen headlights (and even halogen projectors) were never meant to control the pattern leak of much brighter HID output so there will be some (maybe even alot of) glare to oncoming traffic. vehicles equipped with HID in reflector housings from the factory (non projector) still have a much tighter cutoff than halogen versions to avoid this.

    5. the bulb sizes for the parking/signal lights in the corner of our USDM headlights is 1157; these also fit and work as stock in the JDM headlights; there are LED replacements that will work as stock in this size. i do not have JDM facelift fogs so i can't comment on those bulb sizes but they are listed elsewhere on this site.
    Last edited by Reelax; 11-01-2012 at 03:21 PM

  3. #3
    Great info!!! thanks!!!


    2003 MITSUBISHI GALANT GTZ

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