Galant306m's turbo build

[Ivory8g]

^ really? mine never has, but I opted for the expensive ass greddy one cause i didnt want problems like that. i guess i could see that happening.

[Galant306m]

those can loosen. seen it happen



the turbo timer is optional, but you just got to take it easy the last 5 min of driving


as for the clutch and brake pedals i might be able to find some if you need

please look the ones that i found local are like 100 bux for the pair.

[4-G-rim]

What kind of tubular manifold is that? Its not a ebay XSpower one is it?

[Ivory8g]

its totally an ebay one. mine looks just like it!

[Galant306m]

What kind of tubular manifold is that? Its not a ebay XSpower one is it?

ebay one that i re welded and polished the ports at work. i had it sent though penetration which shows any problems with the welds under a black light with some green die crap lol and then welded the spots that where week or would leak.

[Shadow19]

ebay one that i re welded and polished the ports at work. i had it sent though penetration which shows any problems with the welds under a black light with some green die crap lol and then welded the spots that where week or would leak.

Isnt that like the magnaflux process or some shit like that?

[Shadow19]

Oh yea. One more thing. Youll have to adjust that wastegate actuator arm on that ebay turbo. My GF is running the big 16g from ebay and with her boost controller set to the lowest boost setting its still hitting 20 PSI. Ive yet to adjust it because she doesnt drive the car much and if she does drive it she cant push it past 3k rpm without the stock POS intake pipes blowing off. Were waiting on her to save up for a FMIC and piping. Youll want to look out for that and adjust in small increments.

[Galant306m]

Isnt that like the magnaflux process or some shit like that?

No magnafluxing is where you take a fine powder and magnetize a piece of steal, the powder will stick to any cracks. Penatrent uses a die that is green and will seep through any bad welds or any voids in the steal.

[Galant306m]

bought some parts today
clutch, brake and gas pedal
1g cam angle snesor
coil pack
water pipe

[Galant306m]

how the hell do you pop the wires out of the plugs? Driving me nuts cause i pop the white tabs up and nothing. Im about to just cut and solder

[skrap]

.... try pushing them forward...

[Galant306m]

ecu swap done. I just needed something smaller to push them out.

[Galant306m]

[Voodoo]

Dual JDM intarfooler setup FTW!

[Galant306m]

even says jdm

[RedGalant2k1]

JDM = "Just Damn Macho"

[mko]

Last pic, right next to the dip stick - theres a bolt that proly will snap later on. You needz a mitsu bolt right there

[Galant306m]

Last pic, right next to the dip stick - theres a bolt that proly will snap later on. You needz a mitsu bolt right there

its a grade 8 metric bolt shouldnt have a problem with it.

[Shadow19]

man you should have never cut that bumper up like that......

[DOHCstunr]

its a grade 8 metric bolt shouldnt have a problem with it.

..... is it a special heat treated proprietary alloy bolt?
no, its not. OEM mitsu turbo bolts are the way they are for a reason. Even down to the special spring washers.

Also just a heads up, the with the extreme heat and vibration of our engines, its not just the welds that fail on thin tubular manifolds. The piping itself can develop cracks and fail. Just make sure your downpipe is secured to the block in the OEM mounting point. there are very few manifolds out there that can handle the weight of a turbo, o2 housing, and downpipe.... as well as the exhaust system swinging around, and the engine torquing against it.

secure the downpipe to the block, and use all polyurethane exhaust hangers(to keep exhaust motion and vibration to a minimum).
Also doesn't hurt to use prothane motor mounts for a million reasons.