Galant306m's turbo build

[phizzalot]

Nice work can't wait to hear your first review of startup and test drive..

[Galant306m]

couple points of emphasis.

Ditch that shitty exhaust manifold gasket and get a mitsu 4 layer.

2nd,
ditch those studs and cheap fasteners for your head to manifold flange and get new OEM mitsu studs, OEM mitsu copper locknuts, and oem mitsu wahers.

install them properly and torque the nuts to spec. start car. drive it down the block. let cool, then retorque the nuts to spec.

I'm trying to help you avoid hours and hours of headaches and exhaust leaks from broken studs, backed off nuts, and broken studs.

I had ones from mitsu but since i had to put another flange in between i had to get cheaper longer ones.

Ill call and see how much 2 mls gaskets are i doubt they can be to much....

[Galant306m]

so you gunna post up the "first start" vid

If it starts lol but yes there will be tons of videos.

Nice work can't wait to hear your first review of startup and test drive..

Yea im ready to drive it again.

[Galanttuner10]

stop posting and get er did!!!!!!!!!!!

[Galant306m]

Lol im working on it haha. Just can't get the fuel pump out haha. Seriously though i know its taking a long time but consider what all happened with the car at once.

[Galant306m]

Oh yea and im a fucking idiot i pulled all those wired out and my maf was one of them sooooo now i have to re wire the ecu for a IAT sensor.

[DOHCstunr]

I had ones from mitsu but since i had to put another flange in between i had to get cheaper longer ones.

Ill call and see how much 2 mls gaskets are i doubt they can be to much....

Dude.... Did you try denting the water pipe with a bfh?
Thats all I had to do to get my compressor housing to clear.
just hit it with a hammer until the front of the pipe is nice and flat. Its what all the dsm guys do.

[Galant306m]

we tried with one of the other water pipes that i have laying around, but its so close to the block with out the pipe in there when we did it the pipe split so we came up with just spacing it out and then rotating the housing so that it would fit. It will still hit it with a half inch spacer. The other problem i was having was the cuppler was hitting the front engine mount which rotating it slightly and with the spacer it clears.

Another problem that im running into is my oil feed line wants to be kinked because of the manifold. I wondering if i should run the feed line off the oil filter block or just try and use the hole from off the head.

[Shadow19]

Feed that bitch from the head. Anyways. Youre going to be running a speed density type deal? Or are you going to be running the maf setup? If youre running speed density you can use the blue wire from the AEM meth progressive controller as a map sensor so you dont have to buy one.

[Galant306m]

Feed that bitch from the head. Anyways. Youre going to be running a speed density type deal? Or are you going to be running the maf setup? If youre running speed density you can use the blue wire from the AEM meth progressive controller as a map sensor so you dont have to buy one.

I bought a 3bar map sensor and a gmc cyclone intake air temp sensor yes im going to be running speed density. The only other person i know of that is running it is john but he has a 1g ecu so it wont help me figure out which pins to use for the IAT sensor.

[Shadow19]

the maf pro has a PNP harnes.. Should have used that!

[Galant306m]

this way was cheaper haha.

IAT $27
Knock sensor $60
MAP sensor $120

Maf Translator pro $200
GM Maf $50-$75
plus i would still need the knock sensor and the map sensor

[Corey2kG]

that work is f-ing crazy bro i wouldnt even think of doing some shit like that lol... it looks great. great job. i definately give it to you for having the patience to do all that work i would be antsy as f*** to do it and probably grow bored lol. thats just me. but again great work and keep it up

[Galant306m]

Thanks, yea it was a long process so much trial and error and just figuring stuff out. All in all though it was not as bad as it looks just takes time and patience thats for sure.

[Corey2kG]

Thanks, yea it was a long process so much trial and error and just figuring stuff out. All in all though it was not as bad as it looks just takes time and patience thats for sure.

So how long you been working on it since the first moment you started buying parts til done?

[Galant306m]

Pretty much lol once i bought the head in october of 2008 till now is how long i have been working on it. I have had the car since 2006 did some minor things to try and clean it up then i just jumped into a turbo dohc 5spd swap all at once so its taking a bit for me to finish now.

[DOHCstunr]

Dude what manifold are you running? I don't understand who would make a manifold that has such clearance issues. Ebay?
If it is i'll tell you right now just skip to the end and buy a real manifold. Like the FP race manifold(they are going for soooo cheap right now) and they don't crack or break.

You and I both know you are going to have a slew of problems from this manifold.

I've had 5 different manifolds on my car.
I could have saved a LOT of time and trouble by buying a punishment racing manifold up front. The FP manifolds are sick.

btw
Eclipsh also runs speed density.


If its oil cooled, feed it from the filter housing. If its water cooled, I'd just feed it from the head.
It has to do with oil pressure and oil volume requirement differences between the two types of bearings.

[Galant306m]

yea it is just oil cooled im going to have to get a filter block i think? But yea im actaully really un happy with the manifold that i have for a number of reasons, when i first go it i took it to my old work and re welded all the welds that i could cause it would have leaked from the start and then i cleaned up the inside and all of the ports because of all the shitty welds that where on it. If i get another job ill but a better one sucks right now that money is a issue.

[DOHCstunr]

yea it is just oil cooled im going to have to get a filter block i think? But yea im actaully really un happy with the manifold that i have for a number of reasons, when i first go it i took it to my old work and re welded all the welds that i could cause it would have leaked from the start and then i cleaned up the inside and all of the ports because of all the shitty welds that where on it. If i get another job ill but a better one sucks right now that money is a issue.

Stock 2g manifold will do fine. Seriously. Sell the stainless manni you modified, then save up for something nice.

[Galant306m]

http://www.cimotorsports.net/FP-Race...alon-4G63.html

I could try and pick up one of those i need to get some new front tires though too lol im hoping that i can go back to work at my dads shop though since he is hiring on another second shift person just have to wait for them to give him the go on it so ill have more money coming in again.