Blow your hot breath on them and turn the defroster on and watch it
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
Lowered the galant yesterday,
2" drop megan racing springs
kyb gr-2's
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Nice, looking good. Just be sure to creep if you can over speed bumps especially when the rear wheels go over it. Got a funny feeling thats how I blew my rear gr-2s. I hit one kinda harder than normal at work one night, and seem like a week later oily struts. Not to mention it was during winter, so I don't know if cold weather has an effect too. Assuming things might be a little stiffer then, that is.
Oil change today.
Castrol high mileage and k&n filter for her, she's spoiled haha
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'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
Well, I want to switch to full synthetic but people have told me since I haven't been using full syn this whole time, I will get leaks. Ive been using high-mileage (syn blend) since I've started doing my own changes since I've gotten the car and I haven't been burning any oil. Will I get leaks if I switch to full syn? Lol
Edit: I have 130k miles BTW lol
If there are old gaskets that need to be changed then they may cause an issue. I haven't changed any gaskets on this car and nothing is leaking and I have been driving it for 10 months with full synthetic. No leaks. Valve cover is leaking slowly but that was my mistake for not torquing it properly.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
Sent from my Galaxy S4
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
If you wanted to truly spoil the car you go with redline or amsoil, not GTX.
I fuck8n love oil myths....smh. Lol!
If you dont have a leak now, one is not gonna magically appear because you switched to full synthetic.
Another on topic myth I always hear: just because the car has over 100k miles doesn't mean it needs thicker oil, if that were true by 250k you would need to use 85-140wt gear oil. Stick to what's on the cap usually its 30WT
These cars are just happy to get an oil change regardless of what is used.
Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64T (Samantha)
'01 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (Daily)
'02 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'00 Mitsubishi Galant ES 4g64 (SCRAPPED)
'91 Volvo 740 Turbo B230FT (SOLD)
'88 Mitsubishi Mighty Max (SOLD)
'91 Kawasaki ZX7 (SOLD)
'95 Kawasaki ZX9R
^ I use it in both my cars, no complaints. Both are 5 speed, I like to stay in higher RPM during traffic so I can maneuver through the slow traffic quickly. Plus it's ricer points.
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15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
00 Eclipse RS MT
That is correct sir, but I was referring to the "She's Spoiled" comment.
Any conventional oil will do more than enough given adequate intervals.
As for RYP, too many motors (built) lost on the dyno. Blocks got rebuilt and ran with other oils (VR1, Mobil1) with no problem.
Last edited by oakrdrs187; 10-22-2014 at 08:38 PM
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